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UNITED STATES OP AMERICA* 



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THE 



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The Great National Route 

.GOMECTINa ALL PASTS OF THE 

South and West 

A\ irii 

ALLPABTSOFTHEEAST, 



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JOHN T. KING, M. D. 



1,000 Copies per Month of this Guide for Sale and Circulated in all 

the Hotels, News Depots, Railway Stations, and on the 

Passenger Trains of Baltimore S; Ohio Railroad. 




fiC?" Procure your Ticjcets at 149 West 
Baltimore Street and Camden Station, 
Baltimore, and at 485 Pennsylvania Av- 
enue^ and Depot Corner New Jersey Av- 
enue and C Sts., Washing-ton. 

THOS, A. WILEY, 
Passenger Agent, Baltimore. 

70 Miles Shorter 

VIA BALTIMORE, 

TO ALL POINTS IN THE 

A\^e«t ajicl SoiitliAvosi, 

Than the Pennsylvania Route, 



-< 
o 



^ 



CO 



CD 

CO 
o 

CD 



KntcrCHl, tu-onrdiiig to A<'t 
Olllcc- or llu 



or ConicrcKS, ill \\\v year isT:!. ))v Joii;*,^\/ICl 
1! l.ilniiriaii of C.>iigr.'ss, iU, \Vahlui\gJbTi, 1\ < 



^VIQis'fti/M. I)., ill tlu 



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tT"! 



INDEX. 

Page. 

Time Tables Baltimore & Ohio Railroad 1 

Conuections of Baltimore & Ohio ]?ailroacl 7 

Advertisements of Baltimore & Ohio Railroad 9 

Bremen Steamship Line IG 

Liverpool Steamship Line IG 

Hotel Advertisements 17 

General Advertisements 20 

History of Baltimore & Ohio Railroad 24 

Valley Railroad 31 

Maryland 34 

Historic Homes of the Valley of the Shenandoah 59 

Advertising Rates . . 3d p:ige of cover. 



MAIN STEM BALTIM0E£ & OHIO EAILROAD. 

J. W. Garrett, President. Jno. King, Jr., President pro tern. 

Tho's R. Sharp, Master Transp'tion. L. M. Cole, General Ticket Ageat. 
Sidney B. Jones, General Passenger Agent, Cincinnati, Ohio. 



Ace. Exp. Exp. Mail Ace. ST .A. X JOIN'S. Exp. Mail Exp. Ace. Ace 



p. M. 
4.10 
4,30 

4*48 
6.03 
6.24 
5.36 
6.12 
6.35 
7.03 
7.34 
8.02 
8.05 



A. M. 

7.30 

7.47 

8.21 

8.35 

9.02 

9.21 

9.31 

9.41 

9.58 

10.26 

11.03 

11.41 

12.23 

12.58 

1.03 

1.53 

2.07 

2.37 

2.57 

3.29 

3.49 

4.29 

5.02 

5.29 

J».50 

6.15 

P. M. 



p. M. 

6*00 
6.18 
7.20 



9.30 
9.56 

1*6.04 
1*6."55 

l"2!o6 

"2.'05 
3**6*5 

4.14 

4.28 

*5.*23 

i'.io 
*8.'o6 

'8."47 

lo.io 



10.49 
11.15 
11.40 
A. M. 



6*45 
7.01 
7.50 



9.55 
10.18 



11.15 



12.13 



2.17 



3.20 



4.23 
4.37 



7.05 

*7*.*5*5 
"8.3*3 

lo.oi 

16.42 
11.00 
11.30 
P. M. 



8.00 
8.20 



8.37 

8.51 

9.11 

9.23 

9.58 

10.19 

10.46 

11.19 

11.49 

11.57 

12.06 

12.24 

12.39 

1.20 

1.41 

2.11 

2.26 

2.44 

4.11 

4.28 

4.47 

5.15 

5.33 

6.17 

6.30 



?. M 

5.00 
5.20 



5 

5.53 

6.14 

6.27 

7.00 

7.21 

7.43 



leave] [arrive 

Baltiraore. 
...Washington Junction... 

Washing-ton 

Ellicott's Mills 

EiysTille 

Marriottsville 

Sykesviile 

Mount Airy 

Monrovia 

.Frederick Junction. 

Point of Rocks 

HagrerstovniJtinct'n 

Sandy Hook 

Harper's Ferry 

Duffield's 

Kerneysville 

Martinsburg 

North Mouritain... 

Sleepy Creek 

Hancock 

Sir John's Run.... 

Little Cacapon 

Green Spring Run 

Patterson's Creek 

Cumberland 

Brady's Mill 

New Creek 

Piedmont 

Frankville 

Swanton 

Altamontt 

Deer Park 

Oakland 

Cranberry Summit.... 

Rowlesburg 

Tunnelton 

Thornton 

Grafton 

Fettermau 

Benton's Fen-y 

Fairmont 

Farmington 

Mannington 

Burton 

Littleton 

Cameron 

Roseby's Rock 

Moundsville 

Ben wood 

Wheeling- 

arrive] [leave 



M. 

12.00 
11.41 
10.40 



8.35 
8.11 



P. M. 

5.10 
4.50 



7.20 
*5.'57 
4."i6 

ii.'io 
' '206 

1.52 
12.53 

11.40 

l6.*26 
*9.'34 



8.10 

*7.*3i 
7.15 
6*40 
p. M. 



4.33 

4.19 

3.58 

3 45 

3.12 

2.49 

2.25 

1.47 

1.18 

1.14 

1.11 

12.49 

12.35 

12.15 

11.37 

11.09 

10 55 

10.38 

9.20 

9.03 

8.45 

8.23 

7.55 

7.12 

7.00 



p. M. A. M. 

10.40 10.40 
10.2211020 

l6.'03 



7.35 
7.11 



7.05 



5.17 



2 20 

'i.iV 

1.03 
1*2.04 

l'6.'35 

*9.'36 

's.'iV 



9.29 
9.16 
8.44 
8.22 
8.00 
7. 

6.52 
6.48 
6.45 
A. M. 



p. M. 

8.20 
7.59 
7.10 
6.55 
6.25 
6.06 
5.57 
5.48 
5.30 
5.00 
4.12 
3.49 
3.06 
2.50 



1.42 

i.'oi 



7.22 11.47 

e'.si ii.'io 

6.-20; 10.40 
5*45110.15 



* Run daily, including Sundays. t 2,720 feet above tide-water. 

Sundays, from Wheeling at 5.45 A. M., 6.40 p. m.— from Bait. 6.45 A. M., 6.00 P. H. 



EAST & WEST VIA METEOPOLITAN BEANOH. 



p. M. 


P. M. 


A. M. 

* 6.45 
8.00 


leave] [arrive 
^ Baltimore 


A. M. 

9.10 
8.30 
8.24 
8.14 
7.59 
7.47 
7.31 
7.16 
7.01 
6.50 
6.38 
6.30 
6.20 
6.10 


M. 

12.00 
10.40 


p. M. 
10.40 
9.25 


7.30 


4.00 
4.05 
4.14 
4.23 
4.35 
4.51 
5.07 
5.22 
5.32 
5.44 
5.52 
6.02 
6.15 




Metropolitan Junction 





























Knowles 






8.17 


8.46 


Rockville 


9.56 
9.43 


8 43 




















Boyd's 










BaKiiesville 


9.03 
















Tu'^carora 






9.30 


9.55 

10.18 

10.26 

11.15 

12.13 

2.17 

3.20 

4.23 

4.37 

5.32 

7.05 

7.51 


Point of Rocks 


8.35 
8.11 
8.04 
7.20 
5.57 
4.15 
3.10 
2.06 
1.52 


7 35 






7.11 


10.04 






10.55 






6 20 


12.00 









6 17 


2.05 






3.38 


3.10 




Piedmont . .. 




2 20 - 


4.W 




Deer Park 




1.17 


4.23 




Oakland , 




1.03 


5.23 


p. M. 

2.50 
3.47 
5.01 
5.10 
5.54 
6.42 
7.35 

p. M. 


Rowlesburg foh 


p. M. 

12.05 
11.05 
9.49 
9.40 
8.49 
8.00 
7.06 

A. M. 


12 04 


7.00 
7.45 


m Grafton m 

™ Clarksburg 


11.40 
10.41 


10.60 
9.54 




t West Union . 




8.4S 


8.53 


Central .". 


9.36 


8.48 








9.57 


10.00 
10.45 

p. M. 

7.05 
10.01 
10.42 
11.00 
11.30 


L F Junction 


8.25 
7.45 

p. St. 

11.20 
8.10 
7.31 
7.15 

*6.40 


7 43 


10.45 




7.00 


A M 




A. M. 

10 35 


7.10 


^? . . Crfa ■? f.rm 


10.10 








7.22 


10.49 




'' Moundsville » 




6.37 


11.15 






6 20 


11.40 




.Wheeling I^ 




* 5.45 













PITTSBUEG, WASHIIJGTON AIJD BALTIMOEE E. E. 

CONNELLSVILIiE ROUTE. 



Leave Baltimore... 


.6 45 A. 


M 


6.00 P. M 


Leave Pittsburg... 8.00 a. 


M. 


8.30 p. M. 


" Washington 


.8.00 A. 


M. 


7.45 P. M. 


" Cumberl'd.. 3.18 p. 


M. 


4.07 A. M. 


" Cumberland 


.1.57 p. 


M 


2.00 A. M. 


" Washingt'n 9.25 p. 


M. 


10.40 A. M. 


Arrive Pittsburg... 


.9.40 p. 


M 


9.00 A. M. 


Arrive Baltimore.. 10.40 p 


M. 


12.00 M. 



WASHINGTON COUNTY DIVISION B, &0. E. E. 



p. M. A. M.IA. 



50 10.25 
07; 10.42, 
19,10.53 
25ill.05 
33 11.12 



11.15 
11.25 
11.35 

A. M. 



9.00 
9.18 
9.30 
9.36 
9.44 
9.48 
9.59 
10.10 

A. M. 



M.|A. }i.\Leave. 



Arrive. 



50 
7.07 
7.19 
7.25 
7.33 
7.37 
7.48 
8.00 

A. M. 



.Hag-erstown 

Breathed's Station 

Keedysville 

Eakle's Mill 

Rhororsville 

Beelei-'.s Summit 

Bartholow's 

Hag-erstown Junction 

Arrive. Leave. 



L. M.^ 

9.35 
9.181 
9.01 
8.551 
8.47 
8.43 
8.32 
8.20 

\. M. 



A. M. 


p. M. 


11.40 


2.35 


11.23 


2.1S 


11.11 


2.06 


11.05 


2.00 


10.57 


1.52 


110.53 


1.48 


10.42 


1.37 


10.30 


1.25 


A. M. 


p. M. 



P. M. 

9.20 
9.03 
8.51 
8.45 
8.37 
8.33 
8.22 
8.10 
p. M. 



FEEDEEICK AND ELLIOOTT CITY ACCOM. 



8.00 

8.20 

8.37 

8.51 

9.11 

9.23 

9.58 

10.19 

10.45 

11.00 



3.10 



?. M.lP. M. p. M. 

2.30 5.00| 1.20 

2.50! 5.20 1.50 

5.3S 2.10 

5.53i 

6.14 

6.271 

7.001 

7.211 

7.43 

7.55 



Leave, Sundays Excepted, 

Baltimore 

Washington Junction 

Ellicott City 

Elysville 

Marriotsville 

Sykesville 

Mount Airy ., 

Monrovia 

Frederick Junction 

Frederick 



A. M.iA. M. 

7.101 8.20 



6.50 
6.30 



7.50 
7.33 
7.19 
7.00 
6.47 
6.15 
5.54 
5.32 
5.20 



p. M. 
3.20 
2.50 
2 30 



p. M. 

5.10 
4.50 
4.33 
4.19 
3.58 
3.45 
3.12 
2.49 
2.25 



Winchester, Potomac and Harrisonburg Divis-ion. 



I A. M.l 

10.40' 
110.441 
tlO.56 
11.07 
11.18 
11.29 
11.42! 
11.56' 

p. M.j 

12.13 
12.271 
12.32 
12.371 
12.43' 
12.49' 
12.55; 

1.03; 

1.06! 



Leave. Arrive. 

....Harper's Ferry 

Shenandoah 

Halltown 

Chariest© wn 

Cameron 

Summit Point 

Wades ville 

Stephenson's 

"Wincliester 1 



.Kernstown 

.Bartonville 

.Newtown 

.Vaucluse 

.Middletown 

.Cedar fcreek 

.Capon Road 

.Strasburg Junction 

.Strasburg 

■Harrisonburg.- 



p. H. 




A. M. 


6.35 




6.22 


6.31 




6.18 


6.18 




6.06 


6,08 




5.55 


5.55 




5.44 


5.44 




5.33 


5.30 




5.21 


5.16 




5.09 


5.04 




5.00 
A. M. 


4.45 






4.40 






4.35 






4.29 






4.2,3 






4.17 






4.00 






4 06 







1.40 







ST a AITS VILLE DIVISION. 



p. M. 

4.15 
4.35 
4.42 
4.48 
5.04 
5.24 
5.34 
6.50 
6.07 
6.21 
6.30 



.19 



00 Zeave... Newark .Arrive 

7.20 National Road 

7.27 Avondale 

7.33 Thornport 

7.50 Glenford 

Somerset 

Wellan's 

Junction City 

Bristol 

McCuneville 

10 i Arrive.. Shawnee Leave. 



p. Mf 




p. M. 


12.55 




9.20 


12.28 




8.55 


12.15 




8.48 


12.03 




8.42 


11.40 




8.26 


11.13 




8.02 


11.00 




7.50 


10.37 




7.33 


10.20 




7.19 


10.07 




7.07 


1 10.00 




7.00 



WAmmarm 

AND 

NEW YORK AND WASHINGTON AIR LINE. 



O-oing iNortli. 



O-oing fesoixth.. 




PARKERSBDRG DIVISION B. & 0. R. R, 



A.M. 

700 


P.M. 

2.50 
3.01 
3.08 
8.14 
3.33 
3.47 
3.59 
4.10 
4.16 
4.21 
4.27 
4.41 
4..55 
5.01 
5.10 
5.28 
5.40 
5.54 
6.08 
6.16 
6.25 
6.36 
6.42 
6.45 
6..56 
7.09 
7.17 
7.25 
7.35 
.M. 


P.M. 
7.05 


LEAVK. ABKIVE. 
GRAFTON 


A.M. 

10.42 


P.M. 
12 05 


P.M. 
11 30 






11.54 
11.45 
11.38 
11.19 
11.05 
10.52 
10.43 
10.37 
10.31 
10.25 
10.11 
9.56 
9.49 
9.40 
9.23 
9.11 
8.49 
8.34 
8.26 


















Fleniino'ton 










...,, Bridgepovt . 


.... 




7 45 


7.51 


Clarksburg .. . 


9.54 


10 41 




Wilsonbur" 








,,, Wolfs Summit .. 










Brandy Gap 










Cherry Gap 










Salem 












.... 








Smithton . 








West Union . . 






8 48 


8.53 


Central 


8:48 


936 




Toll Gate 






.... 


Pennsborough 








Ellenborough 










Cornwallis 








Cairo 










Silver Run 










Petroleum 




8.06 
8.00 
7.57 
7.46 
7.32 
7.24 
7.15 




9.57 


10.00 


L. p. Junction 


7.43 


825 




Eaton's 






Walker's 














* 






Claysvllle 














10.45 


10.45 

P.M. 


PARKEKSBURG 


7.00 

A.M. 


7 45 


A.M. 


ARRIVE. LEAVE. 


P.M. 



LAKE ERIE DIVISION B. & 0, R. R. 



A.M. 


A.M. 

7.35 


P.M. 

5.30 


LEAVE. ARRIVE. 


P.M.'p.M. 

6.25 10.25 
6.00 10.00 
5.35 9.35 

5.26 9.15 
5.17 9.05 
5.06 8.54 
4.50 8.37 
4.42 8.30 
4 23' 8 10 


PM. 
4.20 
3 43 


12 10 


7.57, 6.25 
8.32! 7.30 
8.321 7.55 
8.42 P.20 
8..52! 8.54 
9.09; 9.20 
9.15 9.32 
9.35 10.35 
9.55 11.05 
10.10 11.30 
10.38 12.25 
11.53 1.00 
11.07 1.35 
11.24 2.10 
11.35 2.40 
11..53 3.10 
12.06 3.38 
12 21 4.05 


Prout's 


12.40 
12 49 


Monroeville 

Pon tiac 


2.50 
2 30 


12 57 


Havana 


2 16 


1 06 


Centreton 


2.00 
1 34 


1.19 




1 24 


Plymouth 


1^24 
10 Qn 


1*40 


Shelby Junction 


1 55 


Spring Mill 


4.07; 7.32 11.15 
3 52 7 S6 1" 'IS 


2 08 


Mansfield . 


2 31 


Lexington ., . 


3.281 7.10 
3.13 i 6.54 
2..57 6.39 
2.42 6.24 
2.331 6.13 
2.171 5.55 
2.031 5.41 
1.48| 5.26 
1.38 .5.15 
1.30! 5.06 
1.151 4..50 

P.M. P.M. 


9.55 
9 26 


2 45 


Belleville 


2.57 


• Independence 


8:55 
8 25 


3?n 


Frederick 


8 02 


326 


Mount Vernon. 


7 26 


3 48 


Hunt's 


6 59 


4 01 


Utica 


6.30 
608 


4 11 


13.32 
12.10 
12.,55 
P.M. 


4.*.>5 
4.40 
5.10 
A.M. 


Louisville 


4 19 


Vannatta'8 


5.53 


4 35 


Newark 


5 20 


P.M. 


ARRIVE. LEAVE. 


A.M. 



CENTRAL 


OHIO DIVISION 


B. 


& 0. 


R. 


R. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


P.M. 


A.M. 


Leave. Arrive. 




A.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


3.10 


3.20 


7.00 


11*50 


' • • Columbus . . . 


.... 


10.00 


2.40 


*5.50 


3.20 


3.31 
3.41 


7.12 

7.22 




. .Alum Creek. . 





9.48 
9.38 


2.28 
2.18 




3.28 


.... 


...Big Walnut... 


.... 


3.30 


3.43 


7.25 




. . . . Taylor's. . . . 




9.36 


2.15 




3.34 


3.48 


7.30 




. . . Black Lick. . . 


.... 


9 31 


2^09 


.... 


3.42 


3.57 


7.40 




Summit 




9.22 


2.00 




3 47 


4.02 
4.05 


7.47 
7.50 




. . . .Columbia. . . . 


.... 


9.16 
9.13 


1.53 
1.50 




3,49 


. ! . . 


. . . Pataskala 


h'.ik 


3.58 


4.15 


8.00 


.... 


. . Kirkersville . . 




9.02 


1.40 




4.08 


4.27 
4.33 


8.12 
8.19 




. . . , .Union 


.... 


8.48 
8.42 


1.27 
1.21 


iisi 


4 ..14 




. . . Granville 




4 23 


4.50 


8.30 


i'io 


Newark . . . 


\... 


8.30 


1.10 


iiio 


A.M. 


5.06 


8.47 




. . .Clay Lick. . . 




8.08 


12.39 






5.17 


8.59 


.... 


..Black Hand.. 




7.56 


12.28 


3!59 


.... 


5.27 


9.10 


.... 


. . . Claypool's . . . 


.... 


7.45 


12.18 





.... 


5.36 


9.20 


.... 


.Pleasant Valley. 




7.36 


12.09 


.... 


.... 


5.49 


9.33 


.... 


...Dillon's Falls.. 


P.M. 


7.22 


11.56 




.... 


6.15 


10.00 


2.35 


.. Zanesville.. 


10.45 


7.10 


11 45 


3!i5 


..... 


6 25 


10.12 


.... 


....Coal Dale.... 


10.32 


A.M. 


11.14 




.... 


6.34 


10.22 




Sonora 


10.22 




11.05 




.... 


6.51 


10.42 


3;i2 


Norwich 


10.04 




10.46 


2;i7 


.... 


7.01 


10.52 


3.21 


Concord 


9.54 




10.37 


2.08 


.... 


7.14 


11.06 


.... 


.... Cassel's .... 


9.41 




10.24 




.... 


7.25 


11.18 


dAo 


. . Cambridge. . 


9.30 




10.12 


i!43 




7.45 


11.41 




. . . Campbell's . . . 


9 05 




9 52 







7.52 
8.02 

8.08 


11.50 
12 02 
12.09 




. . . .Gibson's. . . . 


8".57 
8.45 
8.37 


. . . . 


9.45 
9.35 
9 30 






Salesville ... 


.... 




..Quaker City.. 


.... 




8.13 


12.15 




. . . Spencer's . . . 


8.30 


. . . 


9^25 
9.08 


12.57 


.... 


8.30 


12.35 


4I55 


. ..Barnesville. . . 


8.10 




12.40 


.... 


8.42 


12.48 





Burton's 


7.58 




8.57 







8.50 
8.55 


12.56 
1.02 




. ..Burr's Mill.. . 


7.51 

7.45 


.... 


8.50 
8.43 




5!26 


. . . .Belmont 


12 '.15 


.... 


9.04 


1.12 




...Lewis' Mill... 


7.35 


. !. . 


8.33 


• • • V 


. . . 


9.14 


1.23 


5*39 


Warnock . . . 


7.23 




8.22 




.... 


9.23 


1.33 




Glencoe 


7.12 




8.12 




.... 


9.36 


1.45 


.... 


..Neff's Siding.. 


7.00 





8.00 


. 


.... 


9.50 


2.00 


6.15 


Bellaire . - . 


6.45 




7.45 


li'26 




A.M. 


A.M. 


1 P.M. 


Arrive. Leave. 


P.M. 




A.M. 


A.M. 



* Run. Sundays. 



BALTIMORE AND OHIO. RAILROAD. 

Main Line and Parkersburg: Division. 

JOHN" "W. GARRETT, President, Baltimore, Md. 

JOHN KING, First Vice-President, Baltimore, Md. 

WM. KEYSERj Second Vice-President, Baltimore, Md. 

W. H. IJAMS, Secretai-y and Treasurer, Baltimore, Md. 

"WM. T. THELIN, Auditor, Baltimore, Md. 

A. D. SMITH, Assistant Auditor, Columbus, Ohio. 

THOMAS R. SHARP, Master of Transportation, Baltimore, Md. 

JOHN L. WILSON, Master of Road, Baltimore, Md. 

W. C. QUINCY, Gen. Superintendent Ohio Division, Columbus, Ohio. 

L. M. COLE, General Ticket Agent, Baltimore, Md. 

A. A. JOHNSON, Assistant General Ticket Agent, Baltimore, Md. 

SIDNEY B. JONES, General Passenger Agent, Cincinnati, Ohio. 

N. GUILFORD, General Freight Agent, Baltimore, Md. 

G. B. SPRIGGS, General Agent, Columbus, Ohio. 

C. A. CHIPLEY, Agent, 87 Washington street, Boston, Mass. 

BENJ. WILLIAMS, Purchasing Agent, Baltimore, Md. 

JOHN C. DAVIS, Master Mechanic, Baltimore, Md. 

S. SIMDORN, Master Car Builder, Baltimore, Md. 



CONNECTIONS. 

(1) With Philadelphia, Wilmington & Baltimore R. R.; also with Line of Steam- 
ers to Europe, and with steamers from Baltimore to Norfolk and Portsmouth. 
(2) With Washington Branch. (3) With Washington County R. R. Division. U)With 
Winchester, Potomac aqd Strasburg Division. (5) With Stages for Berkeley and 
Bedford Springs. (6) With Connellsville Route. (6)^) With Cumberland & Penn- 
sylvania R. R. (7) With Parkersburg Division, over which, in counectioii with 
Marietta & Cincinnati R. R., through cars are run from Baltimore to Cincinnati, 
without change. (8 ) With Laurel Fork & Sand Hill R. R. (9) With Marietta & 
Cincinnati R. R. (10) With Ohio & Mississippi R. W.; also with Indianapolis, 
Cincinnati & Lafayette R. R.; with United States Mail Line of Steamers for 
Louisville and points on the Ohio River; also with the Louisville, Cincinnati & 
Lexington Short Line Route to Louisville, &c. 

(1) With Philadelphia, Wilmington & Baltimore Railroad, for New York, 
Philadelphia, and all Eastern cities ; with Steamers for Europe, and with Steam 
ship Line for Norfolk and Portsmouth. 

(2) Parkersburg Division diverges from Main Line. 

(3) With Central and Ohio Division. 

(4) With Cleveland & Pittsburg Railroad, and with Steamers from Wheeling to 
river ports. 

(5) With Cincinnati & Muskingum Valley Railroad. 

(6) With Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway; also with Lake Erie 
Division of Baltimore & Ohio Railroad. 

(7) With Little Miami, and Indianapolis and Chicago Division of Pittsburg, 
Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway, for Cincinnati, Indianapolis, Chicago, &c.; also 
with Main Line of Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & Indianapolis Railway, and 
branch from Columbus to Springfield. 

(8) With Cleveland, Mount Vernon & Delaware Railroad, 

(9) With Pittsburg, Fort Wayne k Chicago Railway. 

(10) With Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & Indianapolis Railway. 



NOTES ON RUNNING OF TRAINS. 

WESTWARD. 

Cincinnati Express — Leaving Baltimore 6.45 A. m. daily, connects with 
9 p. M. train from New York, and runs through to Cincinnati without change. 

St. Lionis Express — Leaves Baltimore daily, 6.00 p. m. No change of 
cars from Baltimore to Cincinnati or Pittsburg. 

8^ All other Westward-bound trains daily, except Sunday. 

EASTWARD. 

Cincinnati Express — Leaving Cincinnati 7.35 A. M., runs daily, except 
Sunday, arriving at Baltimore 8.50 a. m., and at New York 4.25 p. M. 

St. Louis Express — Leaving Cincinnati 10.30 P. m., Parkersburg 7 A. M., 
runs daily, arriving at Baltimore 10.20 p. m., and makes close connection with 
express train, arriving at New York 6.30 a. m. 

B^ All other Eastward-bound trains daily, except Sunday. 



Ellicott's Mills Accommodation Trains leave Camden Station 1.20 
p. M., arriving at Ellicott's Mills 2 10 P. m. Returning, leave Ellicott's Mills 
2.30 P. M,, arriving at Camden Station 3.20 p. M. 

Winchester Accommodation Train leaves Baltimore 4.10 p. m., 
arriving at Winchester 5 A. m. Returning, leaves Winchester 9.40 p. M., arriving 
at Baltimore 10.40 A. M. 

Comparative Distances to Baltimore and New York. 

From Chicago, III— To Baltimore, via Baltimore and Ohio railroad, 795 miles. 
To New York — Via New York Central railroad, 980 miles; via Erie railroad, 961 
miles ; via Pennsylvania railroad, 899 miles. Less to Baltimore than the average 
distance to New York, 152 miles. 

From St. Louis, Mo.— To Baltimore, via Baltimore and Ohio railroad, 929 miles. 
To New York— -Via New York Central railroad, 1,167 miles; via Erie railroad, 
1,201 miles; via Pennsylvania railroad, 1,050 miles. Less to Baltimore than the 
average distance to New York, 210 miles. 

From Louisville, Ky. — To Baltimore, via Baltimore and Ohio railroad, 696 miles. 
To New York— Via New York Central railroad, 989 miles ; via Erie railroad, 987 
miles; via Pennsylvania railroad, 851 miles. Less to Baltimore than the average 
distance to New York, 246 miles. 

From Cincinnati, Ohio.— To Baltimore, via Baltimore and Ohio railroad, 589 
miles. To New York— Via New York Central railroad, 882 miles ; via Erie rail- 
road, 861 miles; via Pennsylvania railroad, 744 miles. Less to Baltimore than 
the average distance to New York, 240 miles. 

From Pittsburg, Pa.— To Baltimore by the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, 327 
miles ; to New York by the Pennsylvania railroad, 431 miles. Difference in favor 
Of Baltimore, 104 miles, and from all points south of Baltimore 200 miles. 



BALTIMORE & OHIO 



The Quickest Time Eyer Made 

IV E S T ! 

PiiUmn's Palace SleepiBg Cars on NiiM Trak 

W^^ 15 T'rains Daily 

EACH ^VAY, 
Between Baltimore and Washington! 

W'Jc'hiTKTfnn PQceotlffOro Purchasing their Tickets at the New Office, 

n d&DlUg LUU rdbJseugbrb, No. 485 Pennsylvania Avenue; 

fiP RaTtimnrP Puc^PTlffPrC Purchasing their Tickets at the Ne^v Office, 

or DdlLimUre rdi&cngtirb, corner Baltimore and Calvert Sts. 

Can have their Baggage called for and Checked Through to destination, at their 
Besidences or Hotels, before leaving for the Depot. 

From Baltimore. From "Washington. 

TIME TO ClNCINNilTl, n hours t§ mill. n hours 20 miiis. 
TIME TO LOUISVILLE, 28 <• 55 <' 27 " 45 » 

TIME TO ST. LOUIS, 87 '< 00 " §5 " 45 •< 

This Time is One Train in Advance of all Rival Lines ! 

THOS. R. SHARP, Master of Transportation. 

L. M. COLE, Oeneral Ticket Agent, Baltimore. 

SIDNEY B. JONES, Qen'l Pass. Ag't, Cindnnati. 
1* 



10 

CHANGE OF TIME, 



On and after Sunday, ITovember 2, 1873, trains will be run as follows : 

The Cincinnati Express, via Metropolitan Brancti Road, for Parkersburg, Cin- 
cinnati, Chicago and St. Louis, will leave daily at 6.45 A. M. 

The St. Louis Express, with Pullman cars, for Pittsburg, Chicago and St. Louis, 
via Washington and Metropolitan Branch Road, will leave daily at 6.00 I*. M. 

The Mail Train, via Main Stem, for Piedmont, and all Local Stations east of 
that point will leave at 8.00 A. M. daily (except Sunday.) 

The Winchester Accommodation, via Main Stem, will leave daily (except Sun- 
day) at 4.10 P. M., stopping at all Stations. 

The Frederick Accommodation, via Main Stem, will leave at 5.00 P. M. daily. 

Ellicott's Mills Accommodation will leave daily (except Sunday) at 1.20 P. M. 
For Hagerstown and Winchester. 

Via Washington and Metropolitan Branch Road at 6.45 A. M. daily, except 
Sunday. Via Main Stem at 8 A. M., and 4.10 P. M., except Sunday. 

For the Valley of Virginia, via Metropolitan Branch Road. 

Leave Baltimore at 6.45 A. M., (except Sunday) arriving at Harrisonburg at 
4.00 P. M., and Staunton early the same evening. 
For Frederick. 

Leave via Main Stem at 8.00 A. M. and 4.20 P. M. daily, except Sunday ; and 
6. OOP. M. daily. 

For Washington. 

Leave at 6.50, 8.45 and 11.00 A. M., and 1.00, 3.30, 5.06, 6.30 and 8.45 P. M.» 
Stopping at all stations. 

Leave at 4 20 A. M., stopping at Relay, Annapolis Junction and Laurel only. 

Leave at 5.20, 6.45, 7.40 and 10.00 A. M., and 6.00 and 10.30 P. M., stopping at 
Belayonly. 

Leave at 4.00 P. M., stopping at Relay, Annapolis Junction and Beltsville. 

Leave at 4.30 P. M., stopping at Rela^^ and Bladensburg. 
From Washington. 

Leave at 5.00, 6,45 and 8.45 A. M. and 12 M.; 2.00, 3.45, 4.45, 6.45 and 7.45 P. 
M., stopping at all stations. 

Leave at 8.00 and 9.45 A. M., and 1.00, 5.45 and 9.30 P. M., stopping at Relay 
only. 

Leave at 3.30 P. M., stopping at Laurel and Relay only. 

Sunday Trains— Washington Branch. 

For Washington— Leave at 4.20, 5.20, 6.45 and 8.45 A. M., and 1.30, 3.30, 5.06, 
C.CCand 8.45 P. M., stopping at same stations as during the week. 

From Washington— Leave at 6.45 and 8.00 A. M., and 2.00, 4.45, 5.45, 7.45, and 
B.30P. M., stopping at the same stations as during the week, except the 8.00 A. 
W., which stops at all stations. 

Foe Pittsburg, via Washington and Metropolitan Branch Road, 
Connellsville Route. 

Leave Baltimore at 6.45 A. M. daily, except Sunday, and 6.00 P. M. daily. No 
change of cars. Pullman cars on night train 



Tickets can be purchased at the Office, No. 149 WEST BALTIMORE STREET, 
corner of Calvert, where orders can be left for baggage to be called for, and which 
will be checked at persons' residence. 

For further information, Tickets of every kind,&c., apply at the Ticiiet Office, 
Camden Station. 

THOS. R. SHARP, Master of Transportation. 

L. M. COLE, General Ticket Agent. 



11 

MY^IL W& WEB ELF 

Of the Advantages Offered by the 

Wasbgton I Baltimore 

SHORT LIITE 
It is the SNOITEST Hill WM iOUTE, 

Its Trains are Equipped with 

H$w and Elegant Day Coaches 



-A^isriD 



PULLMAN 

i 



Insuring Comfort and Luzury by Day and Night. 



12 

T^ICEI THE 



Washingtoa ajid Baltimor$ 

C01TITEI.I.SVI1.LB K.OT7TS. 

PULLMAN PALACE GARS 

AND 

Magnificent Day Coaches 

FKOM 

BALTIMOEE AND WASHINGTON 

TO 
WITHOUT CHANG£. 



13 

A TRAVELER SAYS: 

IT IS THE 

UNCONTRADICTED TESTIMONY 

OF 

TOURISTS FROM ALL LANOS, 

THAT THE 

SCENERY 



OF THE G-REAT 



BALTIMORE & OHIO 



IN 



Natural and Artistic Loveliness, 

In all the combined elements of HISTOKICAL IN- 
TEREST, the BEAUTIFUL, the PICTUEESQUE 
and the SUBLIME, 



AND 

UNRIVALED 

AMONG THE RAILROADS OF AMERICA 

And the Traveler knows whereof he speaks. 



14 

]M[02SrOI>OIL.IZES 

THE ONLY LINE THAT KUNS 

Palace, Draw ii-Eoom aM l\mi Cars, 

ELEGANT DAT COACHES 

FROM 

Washington and Baltimore 

TO 



ciirciirirATi& ST. LOUIS 

MONOPOLIZES, in fine, all the elements that 
constitute A FIRST-CLASS RAILWAY. 

ii^^Secare Your Ticiets via tie Baltiire & Olio, 

For Sale at all the Principal Ticket Offices. 
S1DNEYBJ0NES,&.P.A. TIIOS. R. SHARP, L. M. COLE, G.T. A. 

Cincinnati) O. Master Transp'n. Baltimore, Md. 



15 

BALTIMORE & OHIO 

RAIIiROAD, 

HAVING EVER IN VIEW THE 

Coiort efll Mare of Its Patroiis, 

Has already completed, and in course of con- 
struction, at convenient points along its line, 
some of the 

HOTELS Hi MEIIL STITIONS 

IN THE COUNTRY, 

Where the hungry traveler will he furnished with 

Everything the Market Affords, 

AND 

Ample Time Given to Enjoj a Sumptuous Repast. 

Dyspepsia Shops, and the old song, "Fifteen 
Minutes, dc," do not exist upon this Line. 



16 

nobtb: gehmajst llotd. 

STEAM BETWEEN BALTIMORE AND BREMEN, via SOUTHAMPTON. 

The Screw Steamers of the North German Lloyd, KONIG WIL- 
HELM I., OHIO, BRAUNSCHWEIG, BALTIMORE, of 2,500 tons 
and 700-horse power, run regularly between BALTIMORE AND 
BREMEN, via Southampton. 

Prick of Passage. — From Baltimore to Bremen, London, Havre 
and Southampton — Cabin, $100; Steerage, $30. From Bremen to 
Baltimore— Cabin, $100 ; Steerage, $40. 

Prices of passage payable in gold or its equivalent.. 

Thej touch Southampton both going and returning. 

These vessels take Freight to London, Hull, Leith, Hamburg, 
Antwerp, Rotterdam and Amsterdam, for which through bills of 
lading are signed. 

An ex.-erienced Surgeon is attached to each vessel. 

All letters must pass through the Postoffice. No bills of lading 
but those of the Company will be signed. Bills of lading will posi- 
tively not be delivered before goods are cleared at the Custom 
House. 

For fr ight or passage apply to 

A. SCHUMACHER & CO., 
No. 9 South Charles Street, 

ALLAN LINE, 

STEAM BETWEEN BALTIMORE AND LIVERPOOL, CALLING AT 

HALIFAX EACH WAY, AND AT NORFOLK, VA., WESTWARD. 

The splendid Screw Steamers of the above Line will run every 

fortnight, taking passengers and freight to and from LIVERPOOL. 

PRICES OF PASSAGE: 

Baltimore to Liverpool or Queenstown — 

Cabin $T5 Gold. 

Steerage 30 Currency. 

Liverpool or Queenstown to Baltimore — 

Cabin. $94 50 Gold. 

Intermediate 47 25 " 

Steerage 32 00 Curr'y. 

At which prices parties desiring to send for their friends can 
obtain tickets. 

Through Bills Lading issued to Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Ham- 
burg, London, Antwerp iind Havre. 

Goods must be cleared at the Custom House before delivery of 
bills of lading, blanks for which latter will be furnished shippers. 
For freight or passage apply to the Agents, 

A. SCHUMACHER & CO., 
. 9 South Charles Street, Baltimore. 



17 

■ ■■.■.9i iPkF < > i 1 > (4> vS> <9^ !m! 



tl*ifiMll,]E:f a aoE^j 



J. F. CAKE, - - - PROPRIETOR. 

m imm at m national capital. 

RE-FITTED THROUGHOUT 

IN THE 

IVSOST ELEOAilT I^AIMIMER. 

A SAFETy ELEVATOR 
Has been Introduced. 

ADDED TO THE CHAMBERS. 

Telegraph, Railroad and Theatre Ticket Offices 
in the Exchange. 

Splendid Coaches always at the Depot, 



18 

ROSiSSRTS ^ CO. 

HIGHEST PEICE 

tHilClAlf tAilf Si, 



^^S^^S^i:^ W^ 



»>«^ ^i)i? 



^o. S St. Paul Steeet, 



Near Baltimore Street, 



,&^IM@MBt 



Perfect satisfaction guaranteed. A general assortment of 
Cloths, Cassimeres and Vestings kept constantly on hand. 




If ear B. & O. M. B. Depot, 

E. SHAEE, Prop'r. mmi^TIM&MM. MM. 



This Hotel, having been recently refurnished and remodeled, 
presents 'all the characteristics of a first-class House — convenient 
to the Raih-oad Depots, the Steamboat Landings, and the busi- 
ness sections of the city — the street cars passing within a few 
doors every five minutes. The apartments are cool and airy, 
and most desirable for passengers lying over for the trains. 

(2^° The House is also furnished with the National Fire 
Escapes and all the most recent hotel improvements. 

TERMS, $2.50 PER DAY. 



19 



R. B. COLEMAN, Proprietor, 

Baltimore, Light and German Streets, 



This new and beautiful Hotel is now open to the Public. It is located on the 
site on the " Old Fountain Hotel," on Light Street, extended by an elegant front 
on Baltimore Street, and is convenient alike to the business man and the tourist. 

It is the only Hotel in Baltimore of the modern style, embracing Elevators, 
Suites of Rooms with Baths, and all conveniences ; perfect ventilation and light 
throughout; having been built as a Hotel new from its foundation. 

To accommodate Merchants and others who visit Baltimore, the Proprietor will 
charge $3 per day for the rooms on the fourth and fifth floors, making the differ- 
ence on account of the elevation. Ordinary transient rates for lower flooi'S $4 
per diem. 

Guests of the house desiring to avail themselves of the above rates, will please 
notify the Clerk before rooms are assigned. 

An Improved Elevator, for the use of Guests, is -running constantly from 6 A. 
M. to 12 P. M., rendering the upper stories accessible without fatigue. 

The undersigned refers to his career of over thirty years as a Hotel Manager, 
in New York and Baltimore, confident that with a new and modern house, he can 
give entire satisfaction to his guests. R. B. COLEMAN. • 




GILMOUH & SONS, Proprietors, 
Monument Square, 



H, H, FOGLE, Manager. 



20 



ARMSTRONG, GATOR & 00. 

Importers and Manufacturers 

237 and 239 Baltimore Street, 

lllleii, llliiiij ill Sill i-0®ii, 

■WSITE GOODS, 

Linens, Laces, Embroideries, Neek Ties, Handi^'fs, &c. 

Prompt attention given to orders. 

BARNUM^ 






^ACnAr' MCm. Uikm ^ii 
it^'K »*&)<«''« ^^*i>)*' «?i 



MONUMENT SQUARE, 



Furnished with Otis & Co.'s Improved Elevators. 



21 



mm 



In 



WASHINGTON, D. 0. 



During the Summer, the Hotel has been 

Re-Decofated and almost wholly Be-Forfiistied. 

Many changes liave been made to add to the 
comfort of the guests. 



The Proprietors are determined it shall not be 
excelled by any Hotel in America or elsewhere. 

T. ROESSLE & SON. 

1PI T^ Ml ^ JIL W, l^j^W^ ^^ W 



WASHINGTON, D. 0. 

JAMES SYKES, Proprietor. 



22 



^mmMB, B^wm'ME mMW) wfmi^mw 



THE BEST NOW MADE.-^ 
Every Instrument Fully Warranted 
for Five Years. 

THE LARGEST and BEST ASSORTMENT in the CITY. 



Sole State Agencies for Smith's American Organs, E. P, Need- 
ham & Son's Silver Tongue Organs, and other leading makers. 
Illustrated Catalogues furnished on application. 

WM. KNABE & CO. 

350 W. Baltimore St., Baltimore, and 112 Fifth Avenue, New York 



LooHbi Glasses, PMiires anJ IMiis, 

Manufactured and Sold, Wholesale 
and Retail. 



424 West Pratt Street, Baltimore. 

0RDEB8 FMOM DEALERS SOLICITED, 



23 

Importers and Dealers in 
Upholstery Goods, Curtains and Window Shades, 

ALL EIND CABIITET MAZESS' MATEEIALS, 

No. UN. Charles Street, Baltimore • 

MYERS BROTHERS, 

fall Paper, f iMaw Mes, Venetian BMs, k 

Opposite Odd Fello^vs' Hall, 
BALTIMOBE, ETD. 

B. T. HYNSON & SONS, 

MAIfUFACXURERS AND WHOLESALE DEALERS IN 

MOSaUITO NETS AND WINDOW AWNINGS, 

Venetian Blinds, Oil Cloths, &c. 

No. 54 N. HOWARD STREET, BALTIMORE. 

STSAM MAKBXsB "^JT'OKKS, 

Cor. North & Monument Sts., Baltimore, Md. 



Marble Monuments, Tomt»s, Grave Stones, Mantels, Pux- 
nitTxre Slabs, Counters, Tile, &c. 

PHARMACY AID fflSRAL WATER DEPOT, 

No. 178 West Baltimore Street, 

IMPORTERS OF 

JOHANN HOFPS GENUINE EXTRACT OF iVIALT. 



BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILROAD. 
BY JOHN T. KING, M. D. 

In April, 182Y, the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company was 
completely organized, and Jonathan Knight and Col. Stephen H. 
Long were selected by the Board of Directors to make the necessary 
snrvey of the country through which the road was to be located. 
The Government of the United States wps interested in the great 
enterprise to such an extent that it detailed S3veral of its chief engi- 
neers to aid in the accomplishment of the survey. 

In due time the report of these able engineers was presented to the 
President, Philip E. Thomas, and the Board of Directors, the said 
report affirming "the entire practicability of a railroad from Balti- 
more to the Ohio river, along the valley of the Patapsco, Singanore 
creek, to Point of Rocks in Frederick county." 

The construction of the road was commenced on the 4th day of 
July, 1828, and the event was celebrated with extraordinary excite- 
ment and ceremony. The earth was broken and the first stone was 
laid by the venerable Charles Carroll, of CarroUton, then over ninety 
years of age, and declared it to be the most important act of his life, 
surpassing his signing the Declaration, on the southwest confines of 
the city, where what is now known as Mount Clare, the present site 
of the immense foundries and machine shops of the Baltimore and 
Ohio Railroad Company. In August, 1828, the work of grading 
and masonry was begun between Mount Clare, Baltimore, and Elli- 
cott's Mills, situated on the Patapsco, fourteen miles from the city. 
On this section of the road, one mile from the city, is the Carrollton 
Viaduct, a fine structure of dressed granite, with an arch of eighty 
feet span, over Gwynn's Falls. A short distance further is the 
famous " deep cut," remarkable for the difficulties it presented in the 
early history of the road. It is a half mile in length and seventy-six 
feet in depth. Eight miles from Baltimore you enter the Paloozoic, 
Plutonian or Granatic region, and in the gorge through which the 
Patapsco flows the granite formations stand out in bold relief. At 
this point is the "Thomas Viadnct," a noble granite structure of 
eight elliptical arches, each of sixty feet chord, spanning the Pa- 
tapsco at a height of sixty-six feet above the river, and of a total 
length of seven hundred feet. Upon this bridge or viaduct is the 
Washington Branch of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. 

Three miles from the Relay House, on the main stem, is the Pat- 
terson Viaduct, a fine granite work of two arches of fifty-five feet, 
and two of twenty feet span on the river. 



25 

AtEllicott's Mills the Frederick turnpike, leaving Baltimore at 
West Baltimore street, and known as the Catonsville road as far as 
Tatonsville, is crossed by the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad upon the 
Oliver Viaduct, a handsome stone bridge of three arches of twenty 
feet span. The road was completed to this point, Ellioott's Mills, 
and opened for travel on the 24th of May, 1830- In the beginning 
no one dreamed of steam upon the road. Horses were to do the work, 
and even after the line was complet( d to Frederick, relays of horses 
trotted the cars from Frederick to Baltimore. At different points 
along the road relays of horses were provided, and from this eircum- 
stance the "Relay House," at the junction of the main stem and 
Washington Branch, received its name. One great desideratum in 
the running of the cars, drawn by horses at the rate of eight miles 
per hour, was to reduce the friction of the axles in their boxes, and 
this circumstance and difficulty was soon to find a master and rem- 
edy. Circumstances undoubtedly make men. About this time 
appeared in Baltimore Mr. Ross Winans, and with his quick, pene- 
trating, profound and philosophic mind, seized the difficulty by the 
horns, and instantly became a celebrity by inventing his "friction 
wheel," an ingenious and beautiful contrivance. The public waa 
intoxicated with the " Winans Friction Car Wheel." The venerable 
inventor still lives, hale and hearty, and the venerable Charles Gar- 
roll of CarroUton, as a "boy again," would take his seat on a little 
car in one of the upper rooms of the old Exchange building, now 
the Baltimore post-office and custom-house, and be drawn or hoisted 
up and down by a weight attached to a string passed over a pulley, 
and around him would stand, admiringly and delighted, the ' ' prom- 
inent and mighty " men of Baltimore, pleased and tickled as children 
with an amusing toy. Could this same venerable patriot and 
" signer " of CarroUton leave for a while his sepulchre, and be joined 
by his old friends, and meet in the "Elevators" of the palace-like 
structure that bears his name, they would be ecstatic at the luxu- 
rious comfort and smooth transportation they would experience in 
being elevated to the sixth story of the CarroUton Hotel. 

When steam made its appearance on the Liverpool and Manchester 
Railroad it attracted great attention here, but there was a difficulty 
in running an engine on an American road. The English railroad 
at that period was made nearly straight, the American road was ex- 
ceedingly crooked ; for a brief season it Was believed that this fea- 
ture of the first American railroads Avould prevent the use of loco- 
motive engines, but the practicability was soon demonstrated by a 
gentleman still living at a ripe old age, honored and beloved, and 
distinguished for his private Avorth and public benefactions. This 
gentleman was Mr. Peter Cooper, of New York ; he was satisfied that 
steam engines could be used on the crooked roads already built in 
the United States, and he came to Baltimore to practically test his 
faith, upon the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Mr. Cooper's engine 
did not weigh a ton, the boiler was not as large as the kitchen boiler 
of a range in a modern house; it was about the same diameter, but 

2 



26 

not more than half as liigli, " and this was the first locomotive for 
railroad purposes ever built in America, and this was the first trans- 
portation of persons by steam that had ever taken phice on this side 
of the Atlantic, and here is the veritable engine, car and passengers, 
and a perfect likeness of Mr Peter Cooper, standing on his engine, 
holding the positions of engineer, brakesman and conductor ou the 
first steam train and trip ever enjoyed in America. 







M 



^^^^Ir; ^^'^^<S^^^^^^^^'" "^v/^^Ul^^X^- 



^V/M-,, ^^P 



This celebrated ride behind Mr. Cooper's engine was between Bal- 
timore and EUicott's Mills. The open car attached to the engine 
was filled with the worthy Directors of the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
road and their friends, (this old fashioned example is still in force.) 
The trip was most interesting, the curves were passed without diffi- 
culty at a speed of fifteen miles an hour. The Directors and their 
friends were elated, and an enthusiast among the Directors, or 
among the friends, when the highest rate of speed was attained, eigh- 
teen miles an hour, inscribed it in a book to be transmitted to poster- 
ity, "0 tempera, Mores!" '■^ Tempora Mutant, et Nos Mulamis 
cum i/lis.'^ 

1873. Baltimore to Washington, 40 miles; time, 39 minutes. 

The return trip from EUicott's Mills was made in fifty-seven min- 
utes, distance thirteen miles, August 28th, 1830. 

The first improved passenger car built and used in England, and 
its pattern adopted by the United States, was thus constructed. It 
was a perfect '^Pullman" in its day; it was a long box, seats ran 
along on each side, similar to our city cars, a long deal table was 
fixed in the centre, and ingress and egress was by a door in the rear, 
with stei)S reaching nearly to the ground. The accompanying cut 
is an exact representation of the first ^^ improved passenger cars." 

(SKB NEXT PAGE.) 



27 




In 1836 the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad was completed to Har- 
per's Ferry, and the Washington Branch was in operation. The 
cost up to this time for this distance, Baltimore to Harper's Ferry — 
eighty-two miles — was $4,000,000. 

In 1839 the construction of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad was 
commenced between Harper's Ferry and Cumberland, ninety-eight 
miles, and opened for travel in November, 1842. In 1847 the sur- 
veys and construction of the* Baltimore and Ohio Railroad were re- 
sumed, and the road was completed to Wheeling, June 1st, 1853. 

The distance from Baltimore to Wheeling, or the length of the 
road, is three hundred and seventy-nine miles, and the total cost of 
construction was $15,639,000. Since the completion of the main 
Stem in 1853, two important extensions have been made by the com- 
pany, one from Grafton to Parkersburg on the Ohio river, and one 
from Washington to Point of Rocks, known as the Metropolitan 
road. 

It is the coi»current testimony of tourists from all lands that the 
scenery of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad in natural and artistic 
loveliness, and the sublime, is unrivalled upon this continent or 
upon the Eastern continent, and for speed, safety and luxurious 
comfort is not surpassed. The road its entire extent passes through 
scenery enchanting, wild and sublime; it goes under mountains, 
around mountains and over mountains, spans rivers and deep gorges 
by bridges as graceful and airy as a spider's web. For the greater 
portion of its route it traverses scenery that refines the soul and fas- 
cinates the senses ; it climbs high mountains, winds along picturesque 
valleys and keeps company with the crystal Potomac, and looks 
down upon the silvery '^ Cheat" and "rippling Tray." Vast 
mountains scan their dark walls in front, and before one can exclaim 
"how is it possible to get over that mountain," the train dashes into 
a dark hole, and instantly total, tangible darkness envelops all, and 
we dash through the mountain and emerge into daylight on the 
opposite side, or the engine and train, without halt or hindrance, 
leap up the mountain side on as perfeetly constructed stair steps as 
those of a dwelling, and descend in the same manner on the opposite 



28 

side. Upon one portion of this road between Piedmont and Alta- 
mont, you ascend the mountain upon agradient of one hundred and 
seventeen feet to the mile, and this is maintained for seventeen 
miles, and for most of the distance the road is constructed immedi- 
ately over the Savage river, foaming and chafing, seven hundred 
feet immediately below the car-wheels; indeed, in some places an 
object dropped from the car window would fall clear of the track 
and fall clear to the giddy depth below. Between Point of Rocks 
and Harper's Ferry, magnificent tunnels are constructed, and the 
magnificent bridge and mountain gorge and scenery of Harper's 
Ferry are of world-wide notoriety. Between Harper's Ferry and 
Cumberland is the great Doe Gulley tunnel, twelve hundred feet in 
length, extending under a mountain one thousand seven hundred 
feet in altitude. Between Grafton and Parkersburg one dashes 
through no less than twenty-three of these long dark tunnels in the 
distance of one hundred and four miles, one of these tunnels being 
two thousand seven hundred feet in length ; but the great tunnel is 
the "Kingwood," near the sublime Cheat river region; it is four 
thousand one hundred feet in length, cut through a mountain of 
solid rock; to make this tunnel it required two years and eight 
months of the incessant labor, day and night, of three thousand 
miners, masons and laborers. The bridges of the Baltimore and 
Ohio Railroad are attractive to the scientist, the engineer and the 
picturesque-loving tourist. The trestlings and bridges across the 
gorges, especially those spanning the Cheat and Tray, are sublime 
in their ethereal position and altitude ; they are supported by slender 
pillars of cast iron, apparently as light as wire gauze, yet strong and 
durable, and almost without a vibration when the ponderous engine 
and trains dart across them. One of these bridges is one hundred 
and sixty-six feet above the stream and valley, an elevation one foot 
more than Washington Monument and its statue;* the other one 
hundred and thirty-two feet altitude. One feels in crossing these 
bridges as if he was riding in the air, or wheeling amid the clouds, 
and is intoxicated by the exhilaration of his sensations, and awed 
by the surrounding sublimity. 

At Grafton the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad strikes the lovely 
" Tygart Valley " river, that ibr picturesque scenery- its entire course 
is seldom equalled, and runs parallel with it for nearly one hundred 
miles, until it joins the Monongahela ; then almost immediately you 
come in view of the Ohio, and run parallel with its banks until you 
arrive at Wheeling; here the railroad crosses the Ohio upon a mag- 
nificent bridge nearly two miles in length, and seventy feet above 
the sullen tide of the Ohio. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad also 
crosses the Ohio river at Parkersburg upon a similar bridge. 

The hotpl system is a feature of this great railroad. 'I'he Balti- 
more and Ohio Railroad Company keep their own hotels; they are 
furnished wuth every convenience, comfort and luxury, and trains 
stopping, passengers are allowed ample time to partake of a sump- ' 
tuous meal without confusion, hurry or anxiety. Their "Queen 



29 

City Hotel," Cumberland, is a building of magnificent proportions, 
unsurpassed in every respect ; the grounds of the hotel are enclosed 
and handsomely laid out^ and ornamented with fountains, trees and 
shrubbery, with beautiful lawns and croquet grounds. The centre 
building is one hundred and forty feet long, two-stories high, sui'- 
mounted by a cupola ; an ornamental piazza ten feet wide extends 
along the entire front and ends, giving a promenade of four hundred 
feet ; the wings are forty-seven by eighty-four feet, four-stories high ; 
the back-building is thirty-seven by ninety-seven feet, three-stories 
high, with a basement under the entire building. The entire hotel 
is heated by steam, provided by two large tubular boilers. 

The Company's next grand hotel is the " Deer Park Hotel." This 
elegant hotel is situated at " Deer Park," Garrett county, on top of 
the Alleghany Mountains, three thousand feet above the level of the 
sea. The hotel is surrounded bv a magnificent grove of forest trees, 
and magnificent mountain views are attainable in every direction. 
The hotel is four-stories high, with Mansard roof, and its entire ex- 
tent is surrounded by broad piazzas above and below It is ele- 
gantly furnished, and is supplied with both gas and water through- 
out. There are one hundred and fifty rooms, all elegantly furnished. 
The grounds are tastefully laid off in walks, drives, flower-beds and 
fountains. Connected with the hotel are livery stables, ten-pin 
alleys, billiard rooms, and croquet grounds. It is in every respect 
the peer of the " Queen City " at Cumberland. 

At Oakland is the " Glades Hotel," and at Grafton a cleanly and 
comfortable hotel. With these facilities and comforts, the travel by 
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad is truly pleasurable and luxurious. 
At all these hotels the mountain air is bracing and life-restoring, 
and to the over-worked, invalid and tourist, they furnish a delight- 
ful retreat, where the refined and intelligent meet in social intercourse 
and enjoy the magnificence and sublimity that environs them on 
every side. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, ninety miles west of Grafton, 
passes thiough Moundsville near Wheeling, and the tourist comes in 
view of the curious and ancient tumuli or mounds, from which 
structures the town derives its name. They were built by an ancient 
and extinct race, of whom tradition nor history furnish any informa- 
tion. That they were an intelligent and artistic people, ample tes- 
timony proves. These mound builders must have been numerous, 
and probably possessed and occupied the vast area between the 
Alleghany and Rocky Mountain regions, for their mounds and 
various articles of their handicraft are to be found over a great por- 
tion of the western area of the continent. They existed long previous 
to the creation or advent of the North American Indians, and far 
exceeded them in intelligence and artistic skill. These mounds are 
about seventy or eighty feet high, and the same in diameter at base. 
They are nearly perfect cones, some of them being truncated by 
time and the attritive agency of rain. They are hollow in the inte- 
rior, having only one chamber ; and in these, chambers have been 



30 

found the osseous remains or portions of the human skeleton. Some- 
times these bones are of gigantic size, and indicating their living 
possessors to have been a race far greater in stature than any present 
existing, or historically described people. Along with these human 
remains are occasionally found coins, perfect in their vs^orkmanship 
and finish, bearing visibly characters and inscriptions that closely 
resemble, if they truly are not, the ancient Runic Nurnipraphy of 
the extinct and vrarlike Norsemen, that one finds upon quaint old 
rune-stones or coins. Beyond a doubt, whoever these mound build- 
ers were, they lived long previous to the Indian race, and were 
versed in abstruse science and some of the fine arts ; and it is to be 
regretted that no reliable tradition or written record preserves their 
name and deeds. And a similar fate awaits their successors — the 
Indian race ; in a few years, within half a century, not one will be 
left ; no vestige will be found either in the way of architecture, art 
or written record of their own, to furnish evidence or remind the 
nations of the earth that a mighty race had at one time existed, and 
possessed and occupied the vast American continent. It is sensible 
to pause and consider. Two great nations once on this continent 
totally extinct, buried beneath the deep tide of oblivion as unknown, 
and as little considered as the dead beasts of the field, or the hidden 
carcasses of the sea. But what matters it to them? human remem- 
brance and human praise or condemnation affects them not ; they 
were the creation of their Maker ; they, in their existence, subserved 
his purpose, and that accomplished, the mound builders and the 
Indians glide out of existence as the fading scenes in "dissolving 
views" of the camera. 



31 



VALLEY RAILROAD. 



The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, joined at Point of "Rocks in 
Frederick county, Maryland, by its Metropolitan or Washington 
branch, pursues its course to Harper's Ferry. At Harper's Ferry it 
enters the Shenandoah Valley by its Winchester, Potomac and 
Strasburg connection and uses this road as far as Strasburg, fifty- 
one miles up the Shenandoah Valley. At Strasburg the Baltimore 
and Ohio transportation is continued upon the Manassas division of 
the Washington, Virginia-Midland and Great Southern Railroad, 
and this connection preserves the line of the Baltimore and Ohio 
Railroad, unbroken, as far up the valley as Harrisonburg, in Rock- 
ingham county, a distance of one hundred miles. Heretofore the 
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, by contract only, made use of the 
Manassas division of the Washington, Virginia-Midland and Great 
Southern Railroad, for the purpose of transportation between Stras- 
burg and Harrisonburg, a distance of fifty-five miles ; but under a 
recent lease the Baltimore and Ohio will have sole control and 
assume exclusive jurisdiction over this division. The Valley Rail, 
road connecting Harrisonburg and Staunton, thereby effects unin- 
terrupted transportation from Staunton to Baltimore and Washing- 
ton city by the new route. Staunton is located on the Chesapeake 
and Ohio Railroad, wh'ch connects Richmond and Huntington, 
West Virginia, by a line four hundred and fifty miles in length, 
extending entirely across the States of Virginia and West Virginia, 
and traversing every variety of country and through mineral 
sections of great wealth. From Staunton, it is known, the Valley 
Railroad is to go south, the work being now under contract, and 
will traverse Rockbridge county to Lexington, pass through Bote- 
tourt county, and terminate at Salem, in Roanoke county. The 
entire length of the Valley Railroad from Harrisonburg to Salem 
is one hundred and thirteen miles. 

At Salem the Valley Railroad connects with the Great Atlantic, 
Mississippi and Ohio Railroad, reaching southward to connections 
with the Virginia and Georgia Railroad and the East Tennessee and 
North Carolina Railroad at their junctions in the Slate of Tennessee. 

The Valley Railroad in its entire extent traverses the Valley of 
the Shenandoah, a region celebrated for its fertility and agricultural 
wealth, its picturesque valley and magnificent mountain scenery. 
From Harper's Ferry to Salem the valley of the Shenandoah is en- 



32 

closed on the east by the long blue South Mountain range, and on 
the west by the North Mountain chain, both being ridges of the 
great Blue Ridge or Appalachian range. The whole valley, averag- 
ing twenty-five miles in width, is highly cultivated, luxuriant crops 
of cereals and hay occupy the soil, and numerous fat herds of beef 
cattle are to be seen browsing and feeding in broad, luxuriant pas- 
tures. 

Construction and Masonry of the Valley Railroad. 

From Harrisonburg to Staunton, twenty-six miles, the Valley 
Railroad is graded, ballasted with the exception of a few hundred 
yards, and substantially bridged. There is not upon the continent 
a road more thoroughly and substantially constructed; the road 
bed is enclosed by two parallel walls formed of large stones and 
stone slabs, similar to the curbs of a street, and within this space is 
deposited the comminuted limestone fifteen inches in depth; upon this 
substantial bed the crossties are placed, and between the crossties 
the spaces are filled with the same material, thus forming a solid, 
undisturbable foundation. Along the entire line of the road are 
inexhaustible quarries of the finest quality of limestone, and the 
blasting, cutting and excavations through them were a stupendous 
and laborious undertaking. Many of the quarries along the road 
furnish h variegated limestone, beautiful in its variegated laminae and 
striae, and of sufficient strength and density to be utilized in the way of 
slabs for tables and furniture, and the construction of mantles, and 
the fissillifferous formations exhumed in its construction would 
enthusiastically entertain and engage the geologist. 

The direction of the Valley Railroad takes it across turbulent rivers 
and wide chasms, and causes it to pierce mountainous bluffs and 
obstructions. For variety, picturesqueness and sublimity it is not 
surpassed by the Baltimore and Ohio save in its Cheat river scenery. 
It traverses in its entire extent a region of the valley unsurpassed 
in rural loveliness and landscape beauty. Valley and mountain are 
blended in one view. On the one hand the intensely blue South 
Mountain trends away towards the south in graceful undulations, 
and the " Three Sisters" affectionately nestle side by side, and the 
dark black wall of the " Massinutton " towers aloft unto the clouds, 
and when gilded by the rays of the setting sun presents a scene of 
splendor that dazzles by its gorgeousness and awes by its sublimity 
In its course the Valley Railroad going north from Staunton crosses 
the Middle river, and crosses the North river three times, necessitated 
on account of the tortuosity of the stream. Hence it was necessary 
to construct four large bridges to span these rivers. In the con- 
struction of these bridges the masonry of the Valley Railroad is 
certainly unsurpassed. In the execution of the work masons who 
have been engaged on the Mount Cenis tunnel were employed. The 
skill of the artisan and quality of noaterial excite and attract ad- 
miration, and the labor, science, and engineering skill displayed 



33 

upon these gigantic bridges will ever be a monument to the 
engineers of the Valley Railroad. The Middle river bridge is 450 
feet long, 60 feet above the water, and has two abutments and three 
piers. The three North river bridges are respectively 315, 340, and 
350 feet long, 40, 50, and 61 feet in height, and have two piers and 
abutments each. The deep, lengthy cuts upon some portions of the 
road are wonderful. At section 11 the road is cut through solid 
rock and limestone 60 feet high, and this cut is over 600 feet long, 
and the cut and road gracefully conform with the curve in the river, 
which is immediately beneath the track. At Mount Sidney, ten miles 
north of Staunton, is the magnificent cut a half mile in length 
and twenty-four feet deep, through the solid rock, and penetrating 
a bed of limestone rich in fossiliffeous treasures. The culverts are 
also of the most substantial masonry, and every portion of the road 
bed and construction presents a thoroughness and durability seldom 
found. The cost alone of these bridges was from $50,000 to $60,000 
apiece, and the average cost of construction of this portion of the 
Valley Railroad was about $35,000 per mile, and when one con- 
siders the amount of work done and the obstructions surmounted, 
the construction cost is surprisingly economical, and is an evidence 
of the judicious expenditure of the funds and the faithful discharge 
of the respective duties of all concerned. 

At Harrisonburg, the eastern terminus of the Valley Railroad, 
the road bed is constructed through the western suburbs of the 
town, and by its construction that portion of the town has been 
very decidedly improved. Streets have been straightened and 
graded to conform to the level of the road bed, and substantial stone 
bridges built across muddy depressions, and culverts of substantial 
masonry have been constructed by which thorough drainage is 
secured. In the portion of Virginia and West Virginia through 
which this road will pass, are 21,000 square miles of the richest 
mineral deposits upon the earth, coal, iron ore, magnetic iron ore, 
hematite, emery, and a region inexhaustible in the finest timber for 
the ship builder, carpenter, or cabinet-maker. The coal fields of 
this region exceed by double the amount of square miles those of 
the State of Pennsylvania, and will for centuries furnish a home 
and employment to thousands of colliers and miners. The valley 
will furnish the mining emigrant from every portion of Europe an 
abundant and healihy home, and the mountains of coal and iron 
and timber will guarantee work and remuneration for untold 
generations yet to come. In these mountains at present game is 
abundant, and the virgin fertility of the soil in the valleys will 
furnish readily all that is required for the sustenance of man. There 
is not upon the earth in the same given space such a variety and 
combination, such abundance of mineral wealth, or a spot more 
charmingly inviting for plentiful and happy homes. It may truly 
become the paradise of the miner and collier, and in due time this 
Avild region will swarm with the stout laborers of Europe and our 
own country. 
2*' 



34 

With the contributing lines of communication at Salem the Valley 
Railroad, when finished to that point, will carry the products of the 
south and southwest and receive at Staunton the contributions by 
the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad, and at Harrisonburg the inex- 
haustible products of the vast coal and mining regions of West 
Virginia by the narrow gauge, and from thence transport them 
over the line controlled and worked by the Baltimore and Ohio 
down the valley of the Shenandoah to Harper's Ferry, and thence 
by the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad to the depots and wharves of 
that company. The advantages of the great consuming and dis- 
tributing capacities of Baltimore will thus be realized to great and 
distinct sections by this combination of routes. 



MARYLAND, 
BY JOHN T. KING, M. D. 



If one will contemplate the physical formation of this continent, 
it will be immediately and strikingly observable that there are two 
great water sheds, one on the Eastern or Atlantic littoral margin, 
the other on the Pacific or Western confines of the continent ; and 
that the continent is traversed by two vast mountain ranges, main- 
taining very nearly, throughout their entire extent, a northeasterly 
and southwesterly direction, very nearly equidistant, and including 
a vast valley, whose transverse area is the distance between the 
Alleghany and Rocky Mountain ranges. 

In this area, from the Atlantic to the PaciBc, are to be found 
every phase and formation, geologically, from the lower Silurian 
up through every variety of formation and strata to the most recent 
or alluvial. 

In the locality and within the limits of Maryla^, the whole 
geological series is present, and after leaving the ancient primitive 
formations and Silurian system on the Atlantic water-sheds, one 
enters tbe cretaceous and carboniferous area in the Alleghany 
Mountain range. East of Dan's range of the Allcghanies, as far as 
the Blue Ridge, all is cretaceous, confined to the mesozoic period ; 
west of it, the formations belong to an earlier period, the paleozoic 
or carboniferous era, and it is here in Maryland that one finds 
himself into the midst of the great coal fields. 

That this region was, at one time, submerged, that even the 
loftiest peaks of the Alleghany Mountains were for a considerable 
time covered by the sea, is indisputable. The fossil remains ot 
both existing and extinct marine molluscs, uuivalvular and bival- 



35 

vular and piscatorial fossils are daily met with in the carboniferous 
formatious, firmly and deeply imprisoned, and extricated by tho 
miner's pick. 

That the great upheaval of this mountain range was long sub- 
sequent to the coal formations, requires no argument or extraneous 
proof to convince one of the fact. Upon the apices of the loftiest 
peaks of the range are to be found the coal measures or beds, with 
their strata undulating conformably with the irregularities of the 
range throughout its longitudinal concatenation, gracefully curving 
perpendicularly in some places, in others, breaking off abruptly* the 
terminal escarpments of the fracture being several hundred feet 
above and below a horizontal line, one of the escarpments being on 
top of the mountain, the other from several hundreds to several 
thousands of feet in the valley. 

That they have been submerged but once, there is ample proof, 
and undoubtedly this long submergence was very early in the 
mundane existence. It was away back in the silurian and paleozoic 
ages, when the earth was in its infancy, and it extended throughout 
the entire carboniferous era. Of this submergence and upheaval, 
no tra(fition could ever exist, or within record testify, for the human 
family was not in existence. The Deluges, traditional and scrip- 
tural, are occurrences of yesterday, compared with the ages and 
eons of time that have elapsed since the Alleghany Mountains were 
covered by the sea. The human family did not come into existence 
until the long mesozoic period had elapsed, and more than two- 
thirds of the cenozoic had passed avray: not until the almost 
termination of this latter period, amid the eocene, miocene and 
pliocene ages, did the human form appear on the earth. 

That the valleys of the AHeghanies have been inundated by 
pluvial and fluviatile accumulations, there can be also no doubt. 
The irruption of bodies of water through the mountain ranges is 
apparent, and admits of logical proof. In a number of localities, 
contiguous to one another, bodies of water contained in the deep 
valleys between the mountain ranges, have worn a channel through 
the mountain and these vast lakes have been drained and the 
ancient water-beds are now dry land and fertile valleys. Between 
Piedmontand George's Creek the S:ivage River, or natural water flow 
or drain of the eastern aspect of the Glade's region, worked its way, 
conjointly with the Potomac, through the transverse sections of 
Dan's range, and the pent-up waters of the vast lake, now valley, 
between Dan's Mountain and the great Savage Range, and between 
Dan's Mountain and Will's Mountain, worked through, by solvent 
and altritive agency, Will's Mountain, one mile -from Cumberland, 
leaving a gorge indescribably sublime and known as the " Narrows." 
Innumerable instances of the coercive outlets through the mountain 
ranges exist in Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Virginia, the escaping 
waters leaving the ancient Lacustrine bed dry and arable land. 
That these ancient lakes were filled with water up to the level of 
the lowest depression in the mountain range, and that by the attrition 



36 

or wear of their overflow the gorge in the mountain proceeded from 
above downwards, until a bed or level was attained as that of the 
lake-bed, is also apparent. The gorges are all wedge-shaped, or 
infundibuliform, the base of the wedge being uppermost, or as an 
inverted cone. 

If the irruption of the waters of these lakes had begun subferrane- 
ousli/, the disintegration of the mountain, and the enlargement from 
the attrition of the escaping waters of the escapement channel would 
havg been almost exclusively lateral or horizontal, for the weight 
of a volume of water flowing through a channel acts more effectually 
upon the bed and sides of the passage through which it flows, and 
as the lake would soon be lessened in volume by the outflowing of 
its water, the flow through the forced aqueduct would be lessened 
and subsiding from the roof of the tunnel would leave an arched- 
way perfect and continuous through the mountain. The formation 
and existence of cascades and large water-falls prove conclusively 
that the attrition of overflow and irruption commences at the summit 
of every gorge. The rapids or escapement of waters of Lake Erie 
is corroboration of this fact. The eastern and western henuspheres 
are vast, bold mountain ranges, and the bed of the Atlantic Ocean 
is a vast valley three thousand miles broad by ten thousand long. 
The Atlantic Ocean is a vast lake or series of lakes, precisely similar 
in its topography to Lake Erie and Ontario, for there is a great 
water-fall or Niagara, a great precipice extending from the eastern 
to the western hemispheres, from Newfoundland to Ireland, known 
as the great telegraphic plateau, on account of the Atlantic cable 
being laid upon it. This Oceanic or inter-continental precipice is 
overwhelmingly sublime, not only on account of its great horizontal 
extent, but also' as to its fathomless depth, the depth of the ocean, 
instantly and as abruptly as the Niagara Precipice, increases from 
a few hundred fathoms to a depth of seven miles, and soundings 
there are not obtainable. The beholder is mute viewing the Horse- 
shoe Falls at Niagara ; the effect would certainly be insupportable, 
if he could stand on the floor of the ocean immediately beneath this 
oceanic cataract, and see a sheet of water three thousand miles 
broad falling from a perpendicular height of probably ten miles or 
more. 

There is no question but what the vast valley between the Alleghany 
and Rocky Mountain ranges was at one time an inland sea almost 
equaling in extent the great valleys or waterbeds of the Atlantic and 
Pacific Oceans. From the incessantly changing character of nature, 
the molecular restlessness of matter, constantly altering in form 
and position, this interchange of land and water that once has taken, 
place, will undoubtedly occur again : what is now dry land will be 
submerged and the Atlantic and Pacific basins be dry and arable 
valleys and broad prairies dressed in gorgeous floral garniture ; 
where now these profound waters roll, and the Leviathan and whale 
and smaller fishes disport and have a home, broad crops of golden 
sheen will wave like the undulations of the sea, and resplendent 



37 

cities will arise, and happy homes will exist, and millions of the 
human family and animals of every type and species will live and 
move. 

The mountain ranges now covered by the sea will stand forth in 
grand and lofty ranges with their fossil stores of fish and shell and 
animal remains. The Azores, Teneriflfe, and Mederia, will be snow- 
clad peaks piercing the hovering clouds ; the Pacific archipelagoes 
will be one grand mountain range broader in area and greater in 
altitude than the Alleghanies or Rocky Mountains. On this ocean 
bed will iron bands be laid upon Avhich lightning trains will dart. 
Man will wander amid this wreck and ruin of a pre-existing conti- 
nent and race and curiously and enthusiastically explore the long 
avenues, deep chambers and broad arches of the coral mountains 
that will dazzle the eye by their purity and whiteness as they 
gleam in the splendor of the noonday sun, and as he traces and 
gazes on this interminable line of coral pinnacles and spires that 
trend for thousands of miles, along this coast, they will appear like 
the ornately chiseled nave of some vast and gorgeous cathedral, and 
he will be alternately fascinated and awed by its beauty, magnitude 
and grandeur. He will doubtingly pause and ask, could this have been 
built and adorned by the insect world ? Man will also roam amid 
groves and interminable forests of gigantic ferns and ti'ees, and num- 
berless herds will brouse and feed upon the, at the present time, su- 
butidine luxuriant foliage and herbage, that detached and withered, 
has for ages, and is now adrift, appearing like a mid-ocean prairie in 
the verdant Sargasso sea, deceiving Columbus by its land-like 
appearance nearly four centuries ago, when traversing an unknown 
sea, by inspiration, making for an unknown world. 

On the other hand, the races that inhabit this now dry land will 
oe no more! their cities will be submerged, and fish will disport 
in their chambers and streets, and on the broad plains and in the 
long valleys in place of the buffjilo, there will roam countless and 
huge monsters of the deep ! where now the husbandman sows and 
reaps his crops of grain, countless acres of molluscs and fish organ- 
isms will exist. The Alleghany and Rocky Mountain ranges will 
be islands of the sea, uplifting their peaks above the circumfluent 
waste of waters. 

Lastly — when this new continent appears, formed of the Atlantic 
and Pacific Basins, the Scientist, the Naturalist and the Geologist 
of that period fraternally and inquisitively roaming, will find the 
exuvias shells and skeletons of once living and curious forms and 
species, and they will confer and reason and concur, determine and 
affirm that these now submarine mountains and valleys were once 
covered by the sea, nor will they desire or demand any human 
tradition or written record to aid them in their conclusions or to 
prove the fact, for the position and enduring testimony will be 
inscribed upon the mountain sides and coral reefs, and an imperish- 
able record will be graven in the fossiliferous pavement of a sea- 
abandoned continent. 



38 

By what agency or force this alteration of sea and land will be 
effected, it is reasonable to conjecture. As the former interchange 
was occasioned by violent, igneous, volcanic and gra.dually ex- 
erted calorific force, so, in all probability, will causes again effect a 
like result. That it will again occur is undoubted, whether the 
event shall be remote or imminent, for to the watchful observer and 
geologist, the gradual interchange has already begun and gradually 
and surely going on : encroachments of the sea upon some coasts in 
some localities is yearly apparent and has attracted attention from 
the thoughtful and observant, and promising and proving a verifi- 
cation of the Scriptures that this earth shall not wholly be destroyed 
again by a universal cataclysm, but by another agent — a consuming, 
pyrogenous one. 

The climatology of Maryland, as influenced and determined by its 
position and physical aspect, is of necessity varied, including a range 
thermometrically and hydrometrically from arctic to equatorial 
conditions. The eastern shore and the eastern belt that littorally 
extend along the Chesapeake Bay, are exceedingly humid and tem- 
perate, almost tropical in its seasons and flora. The eastern shore, 
sensibly feeling the thermal influence of its inter-oceanic position 
and proximity to the Gulf Stream, the winters are more mild and 
humid and vernal season or weather is several weeks ahead of other 
portions of the State ; the northern and western portions are cold and 
rainy, and long and vigorous winters prevail. In the Alleghany 
region the springs are late and chill, and rain descends without 
warning, owing to some drifting clouds getting in the cold condens- 
ing stratum of the mountain range. 

The prevailing winds nearly all over the State are almost diamet- 
rically opposite, previous to, and succeeding the winter and summer 
solstices, on the eastern shore. The winds are much influenced by 
and indeed are partially the northern limits or caudal fragments of 
the great Atlantic "Trades" that unchangeably blow from the 
same quarter, the southeast, and absorbing heat in its passage across 
the Gulf Stream, averaging two hundred miles in width, infringes 
upon our coast laden with warmth and moisture. Under these cir- 
cuttistances, this eastern shore region must of necessity be a locality 
highly favorable to agriculture, horticulture and fruit culture, inde- 
pendently of any natural fertility or fertilizing agent. These cli- 
matic advantages, combined with the deliciousness, variety, and 
abundance of its marine and fluviatile productions, render th s por- 
tion of the State the Paradise of the epicure and gentleman of ease, 
and the Mecca of the literary and lazy. 



CHAPTER II. 

That portion of Marj^land intervening between the Chesapeake 
Bay and the Blue Ridge range of mountains, especially that' portion 
north of the Patuxent River as far as the Pennsylvania line, belongs 



39 

to the ancient lower and upper Silurian paleozoic period. In- 
deed, no portion of the earth in the Eastern or Western hemisphere 
can claim seniority to it, in this area, especially about the City of 
Baltimore and EUicott's City, All along what is known as Elk 
Ridge are formations exclusively restricted to the lower and upper 
Silurian age, and the fauna consist totally of the extinct fossil speci- 
mens of molluscs and fishes. The region referred to is upon the 
eastern or Chesapeake Bay's littoral confines, from the Patuxent river 
to the Patapsco, bluffy, especially in the counties of Prince George'3 
and Calvert, and so marked in this physical characteristic, that the 
southern portion of Calvert is called the " Cliffs of the Patuxent." 

Each of these counties is Jurassic and cretaceous of the ovlitic and 
mesozoic period. This elevation is maintained as you recede from 
the bay shore, and is diversified by undulations, increasing in mag- 
nitude, until you strike the Blue Ridge or Appalachian range proper. 
This region, in a metalliferous point of view, contains some iron ore, 
and near the City of Frederick are to be found slate quarries of a 
superior quality of that mineral. Going directly west from Balti- 
more, the first glimpse of the Blue Ridge range of mountains is ob- 
tained at Frederick city. Here a long, lofty ridge rises into view, 
trending north-east and south-west, and is known as the Catoctia 
Mountains. Beyond this is another range which is the "South 
Mountain," Crossing this range you descend into one of the love- 
liest valleys that mortal eye ever rests upon, containing fine resi- 
dences and highly cultivated farms, and presenting every landscape 
and rural beauty, that nature and cultivation can bestow. It was 
in this valley, sheltered on the east by the South Mountain and oa 
the west by the North Mountain, that one of tb.e most sanguinary 
conflicts of the late fratricidal war took place. The immediate 
locality of the battle was adjacent to the little village of Sharpsburg, 
and upon the banks of the picturesque Ahtietam creek. Upon the 
site of this deadly struggle is the National Cemetery, and contains 
inhumed within its precincts the remains of over five thousand war- 
riors. In this valley also is situated the neat and urban like town 
of Hagerstown, 

Along the summit of South Mountain is presented a most curious 
and interesting phenonenon, and which is readily resolved into the 
certainty of its being the bed of an ancient river. It runs parallel 
with the mountain range and its longitudinal inclination or dip is 
toward the north, consequently the waters of this ancient river must 
have flowed in that direction. Apart from this northern inclination 
or dip, the disposition of the stones, boulders, and debris, prove 
conclusively that such must have been its direction*. The boulders 
and stones lie in an implicated position, like the alternate courses of 
shingles or ties upon the roof of a building, and some of them show 
the corrugations of a tide or current ripple upon their surfaces, un- 
doubtedly impressed thereon when in a plastic state, presenting the 
familiar appearance, such as one may see at any time, upon the sand- 
bars and sand shores of our rivers and sea coast. CFndoubtedly, the 



40 

bed of this ancient river was, in its entire e5:tent, elevated to its 
present position on the summit of South Mountain, when the eleva- 
tion of the mountain took place, and presents all the appearances of 
a dried up stream. 

Beyond Frederick city as far as Harper's Ferry, the Potomac river 
flows through a channel interposed between the north' and south 
escarpments of the Catoctin and South Mountains. At Harper's 
Ferry the South Mountain abruptly terminates, or is apparently 
cleaved in twain. The mountainous height on the Maryland side of 
the Potomac is known as the Maryland Heights, and towers aloft in 
an almost perpendicular escarpment. Upon this apparently inac- 
cessible height were encamped the armies of the North and South 
alternately, and the heaviest ordinance was transferred to its sum- 
mit. That part of the mountain on the Virginia side of the Potomac 
is known as Loudon Heights, and is the resumption of the range 
which extends southerly into Virginia. It is at this point, Harper's 
Ferry, that the Potomac and Shenandoah effect their confluence, 
and apparently by irresistible and combined force have rent the vast 
mountain in twain, but the impression that either of those rivers 
forcibly burst through the mountain is without reasonable founda- 
tion, and can be controverted and proven by the simplest reasoning. 
The Shenandoah flows along a natural bed, or a longitudinal depres- 
sion, the valley of Virginia, and this depression or river bed is con- 
tinued at Harper's Ferry in the gorge between the Catoctin and 
South Mountains. This depression or natural bed is not interrupted 
at all at Harper's Ferry by any mountainous obstacle, nor ever has 
been. The river would flow, if it had never united with the Poto- 
mac, naturally around the base of the abrupt Catoctin Mountain. 
The Potomac also flows in an original and natural bed, and at Har- 
per's Ferry follows the depression between the north and south 
extremities of the South Mountain. If the two rivers, or either of 
them, had by irruptive force pierced the mountain, large quantities 
of immense boulders would have been precipitated into the bed of 
the streams and translated shorter or longer distances by the impet- 
uous current; but such is not the case. The sides of the mountain 
forming the walls of this gorge are almost perpendicular, and the 
bed of the river is paved with slabs of sandstone, which originally 
existed in the stratum. Moreover, the edges and angles of the rocks, 
that constitute the wall of the escarpments, show no evidence of 
being smoothed or rounded by the attrition of water or any other 
agency, nor have the channels of either of the rivers widened bj 
cavings-in or wear, within the recollection of man, and when an- 
nually the most impetuous and irresistible torrents rush through 
these gorges. 

As before stated, geologically, Cecil, Baltimore, Harford, portions 
of Anne Arundel, Howard, Montgomery, and Frederick counties 
belong to the several different periods of silurian, permian, meta- 
morphic, and Jurassic. There have been found, and can always be 
found the most ancient formations and types of molluscs, fishes, 



41 

reptiles, birds, and quadruped animals, whose existence stretched 
over a space from the paleozoic through the raesozoic to the end of 
the cenozoicera. The Blue Ridge Mountains constitute an abrupt 
and perfect line of demarkation between the ancient silurian and 
paleozoic formation and period, and, west of a line drawn ft-om 
Harper's Ferry to the Pennsylvania border, is a totally different 
geological formation. On the east of this line you leave the ancient 
formations referred to ; on the west you immediately enter the per- 
miau and calcareous eras, the upper and lower chalks, and find 
yourself in the midst of the mesozoic age. The formations in Wash- 
ington and Alleghany counties are almost totally limestone and 
sandstone, outcropping in strata in every exposed situation. After 
crossing the intermediate valley or plain between the Blue Ridge 
and the Alleghanies, you enter at once into the mountain region of 
Maryland, the North Mountain forming the eastern confines of the 
great Alleghany range. Following the Potomac, when one arrives 
at Hancock, you instantly enter the mountain fastnesses, and from 
Hancock to Grafton, or nearly a hundred and fifty miles, the trav- 
eler is in a maze and labyrinth of mountain peaks and ranges, in 
the labyrinthlan gorges and windings between the mountains and 
the Potomac river. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad and the 
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal are running parallel and side by side. 
The city of Cumberland is situate.d in a basin or concavity com- 
pletely surrounded by mountain peaks and ranges. On the next 
side of the city the lofty and magnificent Wills Mountain rears its 
dark green wall ; to the south, the lovely Nobleys erect their serrated 
forms, and away beyond, surmounting all and like a monarch 
among mountains, rises the sublime and towering Dan's Mountain. 
One mile west of Cumberland, Will's Mountain is completely trans- 
versely divided by Will's creek, and through this sublime gorge 
passes the creek, the National road and the Pittsburg and Connells- 
ville Railroad, all running parallel and side by side, and conforming 
to the graceful curvatures of the gorge. The trarrsverse section of 
the mountain is one mile in length by about three hundred feet broad, 
and in this gorge or the " Narrows," as it is called, is one of the 
most interesting and sublime pieces of scenery that i* to be met with 
on this continent Upon either side are the truncated extremities of 
the mountain, nine hundred feet in height, with almost perfect per- 
pendicular escarpment, and the summit presenting a castellated ap- 
pearance, that it is difficult to realize are not genuine castles. The 
capping and strata of this gorge is a reddish sandstone, and the great 
altitude and fantastic forms of these strata cause the illusion, at one 
point, to be perfect. There is the turreted castle, jutting out from 
the dizzy cliff with bastions and columns, and one can easily imagine 
himself in the presence of some fierce warrior and in the domain of 
some lordly knight. From Cumberland, westwardly, one can trav- 
erse one of the loveliest valleys that human vision ever beheld. It 
is a valley lying between the Nobley Mountains and Will's and Dan'a 
Mountains. It is about one mile wide and near thirty in length; 



42 

through it flows the Potomac river, and parallel with the river rung 
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The mountains on either side are 
high to dizziness and gracefully serpentine in their range. 

At New Creek and at Piedmont, and next to Piedmont as far as 
Altamont, the scenery is overwhelmingly sublime, and it must be a 
callous soul that would not be attuned to soieran and adoring mood. 
It is at Piedmont, the long upward seventeen miles grade of the 
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad commences, and the ascent or gradient 
of the road is one hundred and seventeen feet to the mile. On this 
grade, on the ascending journey, two locomotives have to be attached 
to the train. 

On the right of this grade is the great Savage range of mountains, 
and three hundred feet immediately belcw the railroad track is the 
Savage river. From the height whence one views it, it has the ap- 
pearance of a silvery band, winding at the base of and among the 
fastnesses of the mountains. 

It is at this point, in this awfully sublime and overwhelming 
scenery, may be seen the lonely residence of ex-Governor Francis 
Thomas, of Maryland, at present United States Minister to Peru. 
He fled to these mountain fastnesses in the depth of his soul's grief, 
with crushed heart and hopes, that his broken spirit might receive 
consolation in the lonely communion with nature in her sublimest 
aspect. Anchorite, monk or cynic could not desire nor find a local- 
ity more sublime or lonely. He was prompted to this solitary abode 
on account of his divorce from his young, sprightly, and beautiful 
wife, whose fascinations of mind and person charmed and graced 
Maryland's and Virginia's most aristocratic and intellectual circles. 
He loved his lovely bride with an insane ardor ; but the demon could 
not let the doting statesman enjoy his earthly happiness. Jealousy, 
discord, and finally separation, closed the scene. She married, soon 
after, a Presbyterian clergyman, and has since resided in Philadel- 
phia. 

At Altamont,* 3,100 feet above the sea level, 3'ou enter upon a wide 
level plain known as the glades. This glade region is the summit 
of the Alleghany region. It is near Altamont the interesting 
phenomenon is seen of two streams or rivers running in opposite 
directions; running east is the Potomac, and the Youghioghany 
within a few yards running west. The Potomac courses to the 
Chesapeake Bay, in which it empties its waters at Point Lookout, 
and the Youghioghany flows towards and discharges into the Ohio. 
The head waters of the Potomac have their source a short distance 
from Altamont, near Fairfax stone, a stone that indicates the bound- 
ary between Virginia and Maryland. 

Reclining by the tiny and sparkling stream and drinking from the 
crystal rills that confluently make up the grand and lengthy Poto- 
mac, I paused to reflect and felt pleasure in contemplation and real- 
ization of the fact, that I had, in five weeks time and tramping, 
travtrsed over five hundred miles, and had kept company with the 
noble river from Point Lookout to the tiny rivulet at my feet, and I 



43 

felt an affectionate emotion as I laved my brow in the fountain from 
which mj lengthy companion took his source. In turning from and 
bidding adieu to my companion for so many days, I felt saddened, 
feeling that i had heard for the last time its musical and soothing 
murmur, and should no more wander along its lovely banks. And 
you, dear old Virginia, the mother of States and of statesmen, what 
a sisterly feeling should exist between you and Maryland, claiming 
in common the noble Potomac, across whose waters these sublime 
mountains have held for ages solemn and silent converse, and upon 
whose common soil the defenders of your homes and firesides un- 
sheathed their swords and crimsoned the soil of each with the gore 
of your noblest sons. As a wall of fire, your sons stood to stem the 
infuriated tide of a powerful and relentless foe, and your noble 
mountains and once peaceful valleys glared in torchlight of the in- 
cendiary, shrieked at the wail of the widow, and wept at the plaint 
of the orphan. People of a common origin and blood, with your 
sister Maryland, descendants of the lordly pilgrims who unfurled to 
the breeze the banner of liberty and knelt at the foot of the cross at 
Jamestown and St. Inigoes, I must bid adieu to your hospitable 
mountain homes and the scenes amid which I so love to linger. 
Their impression and remembrance will gladden my pathway through 
life, and oause my glazed eye to brighten with a gleam of joy in my 
extremity. 



CHAPTER III. 

It is in Alleghany County, the extreme western county of Mary- 
land, that you enter the intensely interesting regions of that great 
geological era in the wonderful and sublime cosmogony. It is here 
you are first introduced into the great coal measures, and brought 
in contact with the ancient carboniferous formations. 

As an abrupt and almost perfect line of demarkation exists, 
formed by the North Mountain, between the watershed of the Blue 
Ridge Mountains, extending eastwardly to the sea, and the plain or 
valley interposed between the North Mountain and the Alleghany 
range on the west, so, geologically, the area east of Dan's Mountain 
or range is totally different from that west of it. On the east of 
Dan's Mountain, all the geological formations and strata are lime- 
stone and sandstone, geologically, comparatively recent. On the 
west is to be found a more ancient formation, viz : the great coal 
measures. 

The great coal basin lies chiefly between Dan's Mountain and the 
great Savage range, occupying an area transversely of about five 
miles on an average and about sixty in length. In this valley or 
basin between these two mountain ranges flows a tortuous and 
shallow stream, known as George's Creek, In periods of drought 
nothing is to be seen but a dry, rugged water bed, but in seasons of 
rain and melting snows this channel is flooded by a deep and turbu- 



44 

lent torrent. The sources of George's Creek are near Frostburg, and 
after traversing this valley for seventeen miles, anastomoses with the 
Potomac at Piedmont. 

On either side of this George's Creek valley, its entire length, the 
mountain ranges are filled with coal to their very apices, and the 
coal measures or beds underlying the valley and beds of the creek 
to the depth-of one hundred and sixty-five feet. Shafts are sunk into 
the earth to the depth of nearly two hundred feet, through which 
the coal is elevated to the surface. Where the mine is on top of the 
mountain the coal is transported down the mountain side in small 
cars regulated by a steam engine, on a tram- way, laid on the moun- 
tain side. 

There are innumerable mines in this George's Creek valley, and 
from Mount Savage to Piedmont is one continuous street and town, 
twenty-four miles in length, inhabited by miners and their families. 
The miners are almost all Welsh and Scotch. 

Having had my curiosity gratified in the interior of the earth at a 
depth of one hundred and sixty-five feet, my aspirations took the 
opposite direction — to the mountain top. At the invitation of the 
gentlemanly superintendent of one of the mines, I concluded to ac- 
complish the feat, the ascent of Hampshire Mountain. 

I was introduced to the obliging boss of Hampshire Mines, and 
was by him directed to take a standing position in one of a train of 
small cars. At a signal to the engineer, stationed on top of the 
mountain, off we started. We glided up and adhered to the side of 
the mountain until we reached the first level or halting place, five 
hundred feet from the surface of the earth. Landing on this level, 
we were transferred to a small locomotive and proceeded horizon- 
tally around the mountain, when we arrived at the starting point of 
another perpendicular ascent. I mounted to one of a train of small 
cars, similar to the one in which I had made the first stage of the 
ascent, and off we started on the upward journey of two thousand 
feet, almost at a perpendicular. In this, the second stage of the 
ascent, I became dizzy, blind, and nauseated, and when I arrived at 
the top of the mountain I felt as relaxed and looked as exsanguined 
as if I had been seriously ill. And the view from this mountain top, 
who can describe? Its equal has never been painted on canvas. On 
every hand I was encompassed by an illimitable sea of mountains, 
and the long deep valleys appeared like fathomless sinuses or troughs 
between the mountain billows. 

At the top of the mountain, at the entrance of the shaft, the 
second boss of the mines courteously inquired : "Are you ready, 
sir, to go into the mines? the guide is ready." Answering affirma- 
tively, the boss delivered minute instructions to the guide to remain 
as long as I desired and to conduct me into every portion of the 
mines. My cicerone having received his instructions, oft' we started, 
each carrying a torch, elevated above our heads. We proceeded 
along the main avenues, but frequently turned off to explore some 
branch aveuue and chamber. These tunnels through the mines 



45 

are about fifteen feet wide, by eight or ten in height, and are cut 
tbroiijyh the solid coal. The floor of each tunnel is laid with an 
iron rtiiiwaj, upon Avhich the small coal cars run. The cars are 
drawn by horses, and each car and horse has an attendant or 
driver. To the cap of the driver and to the side of the head of the 
horse is attached a lamp, which is necessary, as the darkness is un- 
utterably black and tangible. At one point, according: to the esti- 
mation of the guide, Ave were fifteen hundred feet under the moun- 
tain, a grave deep enough, and a superincumbent weight sufficient 
to confine and silence, one would think, the mightiest and most 
refactory demon. 

In the centre of this mining region is situated the town of Frost- 
burg. It is fourteen hundred feet above Cumberland, eleven miles 
distant, and two thousand three hundred feet above Baltimore. 
The town is completely underminded, all the coal havigg been 
removed from beneath it, with the exception of the columns of coal 
left as supporting pillars to uphold the terrestrial shell and town. 
The Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad passes under the town 
in a subterranean tunnel. In going from Cumberland to Frostburg, 
eleven miles distant, the whole way is up mountain, and to accom- 
plish the ascent the road is constructed in the form of Y's; the loco- 
motive and train climb one Y, switch off on another, and so on, 
backwards and forwards, until at last you arrive safely on the top of 
the mountain and at Frostburg. 

A view unsurpassed for panoramic character and grandeur, save 
one, is obtainable two miles from Frostburg, from the summit of the 
great Savage Mountain, from which point of observation, one can 
look upon a sea of mountains rolling in Pennsylvannia, Maryland 
and Virginia, and in the town of Frostburg, one thousand feet 
below, I could count every house. What pen can describe or 
pencil portray the grandeur and beauty of this mountain region ? 
It is God's unrolled canvas, upon which, with a Master's hand. He 
has tinted and touched the whole into transcendent loveliness and 
sublimity. But not alone to please the eye of man has He fashioned 
these mountains and painted them in emerald, purple and gold, and 
decked the valleys with flowers rich in fragrance and gorgeous in 
bloom. He has made these mountains the storehouse for the useful 
and indispensable coal that blazes on every hearth-stone, that 
warms and gladdens alike the rich man's palace and the humble 
cottage home, that furnishes the gas light to illumine man's path- 
way and make resplendent the domicils and halls of the wealthy and 
refined. Prescient and raercifnl God ! What is man that thou 
shouldst be so tenderly mindful of him ? that thou shouldst make 
the mountains and valleys and the ftithomless sea and the vast 
aerial ocean all subservient to his use and pleasure? Thoughtless 
and ungrateful man 1 canst thou not comprehend that all these 
things are of God's infinite goodness and love? 

Traversing this mountain region, independently of the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railroad, are two important and noteworthy highways, 



46 

ancieiat routes coeval with the republic, one of them, the other ante- 
dating it and contemporaneous with the regal sovereignty that ex- 
ercises its power over the infant American Colonies. One is Brad- 
dock's road, that extends from the District of Columbia to Fort Du 
Quesne near the present city of Pittsburg on the Ohio River. This 
road was constructed by Braddock, assisted by the youthful Wash- 
ington, for the purpose of transportation of troops to overcome the 
French forces occupying the country of the Ohio and Monongahela 
rivers, and to suppress the depredations of the hostile Indian tribes 
intervening and existing in that locality. Every inch of the route 
was over almost, one would think, insuperable mountains, through 
an interminable wilderness through the domain of hostile Indian 
tribes, across morasses, jungles, and rivers for a distance of over 
four hundred miles. 

The Tindertaking and construction of this road would, one would 
affirm, intimidate the bravest heart and paralyze the stoutest arm, 
and it is astonishing how cognizable this road is in some portions 
of its route, when one considers that nearly one hundred and twenty 
years have intervened since its construction. Through the courtesy 
of Dr. Charles Getzendanner, of Frostburg, as cicerone, I was en- 
abled to traverse a portion of this road, south of and adjacent to 
Frostburg. On the side of the road stands emplanted a dark gray 
slab or tablet, about two feet wide by three in height. On the re- 
verse of this tablet is inserted in old English characters, ** 11 miles 
to Fort Cumberland, 29 miles to Capt. Smyth's Inn and Bridge — 
Big crossings. The best road to Red Sandstone. Old Fort, 64 
miles." On the obverse is inscribed in the same character of let- 
ters, "Our Country's Rights we will defend." Either the icono- 
clast or sacred memento-loving stranger has chipped off the angles 
and edges of the venerable tablet. There can be no reasonable 
doubt that Washington saw and touched the ancient landmark, 
and who can say that he did not, with his own hands, erect it, and 
chisel the letters, plainly visible upon its weather-beaten and gray 
surface ? 

A short distance west of this, on Laurel Mountain, Braddock re- 
ceived his mortal wound. Disregarding the cautious admonition of 
his young, but sage Lieutenant, George Washington, he attacked 
the savages in their ambush and fell by the unerring arrow of the 
Indian. Braddock reposes in death's embrace in a little valley in 
the noble AUeghanies, and Washington in the hearts of his country- 
men, in the soil of his beloved Mount Vernon. 

Along this road made by Braddock and nearly equidistant are 
vestiges of forts, constructed of stone, and some of them in a won- 
derful state of preservation. There is one near the town of Hancock 
that astonished me by its size and state of preservation. The next 
important fort was erected on the heights in south Cumberland, 
overlooking Wills Creek, and upon its site is now erected the Epis- 
copal Church; also upon this site, ancient Fort Cumberland, are the 
vestiges of a well-constructed fort by Braddock and Washington, 



47 

although the sparkling waters of Will's Creek laved the base of the 
fortress of the ancient Fort Cuuaberland, The garrison were com- 
pelled to abandon its use on account of the unerring and deadly In- 
dian arrows, that were showered upon them whenever they emerged 
from behind their ramparts, except in full armor and force. 

The other interesting trans- Alleghany highway is the old ''Na- 
tional road." This great road in days of yore had its eastern ter- 
minus at the General Wayne Tavern, northwest corner of Baltimore 
and Paca streets. This road left Baltimore in the route of the 
present Baltimore street, and'at the western limits of the city was 
known, and is now known as far as the city of Frederick, as the 
Frederick road or Turnpike. Westward of Frederick it has main- 
tained its baptismal name of National road. This road extends 
from Baltimore over the Blue Ridge and Alleghany Mountains to 
Indianapolis, Ohio, to the distance of nearly five hundred miles, and 
was, previous to the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, the great high- 
way and only thoroughfare between the east and far distant west. 

"Leaves have their time to fall," and the old National road has 
sunk into oblivion and disuse— has had to yield to the iron band 
that encircles almost the globe. A short time ago and the last 
stage coach, the last of its memorable race, rumbled over its time 
and travel-worn pavement, and when I saw it draw up in*front of 
the post office in Cumberland for the last time — the end of its last 
journey from Frostburg, I lingered around it with reverence and 
affection. Here it was, the very type of the venerable and ancient 
diligence, low swung by broad leathern springs on low cumbersome 
wheels, corpulent in body, with a great capacious boot in front and 
the mail apartment in the rear, covered by a dusty, crispy leathern 
apron, fastened by large rusty buckles and broad rusty straps : such 
was the appearance of the last of the old great stage coaches of the 
great National highway ; and when it was driven into the old stage 
yard for the last time and its wheels were locked never to revolve 
again, a feeling came over me akin to the melancholy solemnity of 
the obsequies of an old departed friend, and I turned away in sad- 
ness. And how they will be missed along that ancient highway, ia 
the villages and towns, where their arrival and departure from the 
doorway of the post-house tavern with its big, swinging sign and 
ruddy, burly landlord, was an event exciting and momentous; and 
in these old post-taverns, in those old by-gone days, what news was 
circulated and startling stories related by the social travelers seated 
before the wide extended fire-place, and cheered and comforted by 
the flaming, snapping, roaring, great log fire. 

It was my happiness to sit in the porch of one of these old stage 
•taverns in the suburbs of the town of Frostburg, on top of the great 
Savage Mountain, and listen to the exciting narrative of an old stage 
driver upon the great National Road, recounting with rapt pleasure 
the hair-breadth escapes and deadly encounters with the mail rob- 
bers and highwaymen of this, then, wild region. It was blissful to 
sit in the full moon's soft glow, flooding with a silvery light the 



48 

sweet and peaceful valley below me, and illumining the long lofty 
range of the great Savage Mountain beyond, and with solar bright- 
ness defining the dizzy peaks of the great towering Dan's Mountain 
at my side, turbaned by the gauze-like cloud that in fleecy texture 
floats above his majestic head, and like the nuptial veil of some fair 
bride, gracefully sweeps like gossamer adown the great mountain's 
side, and so poetic, peaceful and sublime the scene ! The full-orbed 
moon poised in the zenith all aglow, the giant mountains all around 
and the shimmering moon-lit valleys stretching far away. No noise 
disturbs the tranquility of night. My" friendly dog would coil him- 
self upon the grass for sleep, and nought would be heard save the 
old stage driver's cracked, tremulous voice, and the tinkling of the 
bells in the sheepfold in the valley. 

After crossing the great carboniferous belt, which, previous to the 
division of Alleghany county, was principally confined to that area, 
but now is included by both Alleghany and Garrett counties, you 
traverse, in going due west, a number of mountain ranges, increas- 
ing in altitude until you arrive at Laurel Ridge or Laurel Mountain, 
some thirt}-- miles west of Frostburg and the great Savage range. 
These mountain ranges on the north extend into Pennsylvania, and 
on the south into Virginia, and after crossing Laurel Ridge, decrease 
in altitude, until they become the foot-hills of the Alleghanies that 
margin the Ohio River, and at Wheeling forming an eastern mural 
inclosure to that city. But the foot-hills of the Alleghanies are not 
abruptly estopped by the Ohio River, for on the Ohio side of the 
river undulations and elevations extend far into the interior of the 
State, like the exhausted undulations or ground swell of a tempest- 
uous sea. The geological formation of this region, west of the coal 
measures or the great Savage range, is now again resumed or iden- 
tical with those east of the Dan's Mountain. 

You again, immediately after crossing the Savage range, enter the 
cretaceous era and mesozoic period, and have almost abruptly and 
totally left behind or east of you the Paleozoic and carboniferous 
age and formations. The mountains are almost totally limestone 
and sandstone, covered by a dense growth of oak, maple, white pine 
and other forest trees, and the laurel undergrowth occupies the 
mountain sides to their very apices in impenetrable density, and 
furnishes a perennial food for the deer and pheasants that abound in 
this region ; and the caverns and interstices among the rocks, 
boulders, shale, and debris furnish an impregnable abode to the 
rattlesnakes and copperheads that thrive and swarm in this region. 
A few bears, also, and panthers, reside in or frequent these fast- 
nesses, and for miles these animals and reptiles are the monax'chs 
and occupants of this wild mountain region. 

About seven miles west of Frostburg, on a plateau upon the sum- 
mit of the great Savage range, and skirting the old National road, 
is a locality called the "Shades of Death." For several miles the 
old road was darkened by the dense growth and deep gloom of a 
white pine forest, and the entrance to this realm would cause the 



49 

heart of the old National road traveler to palpitate with fright and 
his voice become husky. And no voice was heard during the transit 
of this sepulchral portion of the old National road, but that of the 
old stage driver, urging and cheering his nervous team, with cocked 
pistol in his belt and eyes right and left, for here in the " Shades of 
Death " was the favorite rendezvous of the old highwaymen and 
mail robbers of those good old times. For one, T shall never forgive 
the authors, corporators, and capitalists, who had nothing else to 
occupy their idle brains about, than project and build the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railroad. This great iron road has been the death blow 
to all the poetry, romance, and enjoyment of travel, and at this day 
not one in a million knows of or has ever taken that grandest of 
journeys in this wide world, from Baltimore to Wheeling, across the 
Alleghaoies, or passed through the "Shades of Death." 

From the city of Frederick, whose eye ever beheld a landscape 
more glorious than that " Middletown Valley," and crossing the 
South Mountain, and looking upon the Hagerstown or Cumberland 
Valley, and the gore-stained field of Antietam, one beholds a picture 
that is unspeakably lovely and enchanting; further westward, at 
Clear Spring, on the south escarpment of the North Mountain, where 
on earth can such a scene be found? One mile from Cumberland 
you pass through a gorge in Will's Mountain, the "Narrows," that 
cannot be surpassed in the Rocky Mountains or any other region ; 
then you climb to the summit of Dan's Mountain, and here let us 
pause at Frostburg, and in every direction from Frostburg scenery 
gorgeous and sublime greets the vision. And the "Rock" on the 
summit of Dan's Mountain — who has touched? Not a score of 
Marylanders or others. 

By arrangement the previous evening, my friend and guide, T. 
W. Clary, of Frostburg, and I, arose at 4 A. M. and mounted our 
horses for the journey to the "Rock" on the summit of Dan's 
Mountain, the distance up the mountain from Frostburg being seven 
miles. After leaving the town we took the Piedmont Road, and 
passed the numerous coal fields and the great "Bordan Shaft," 160 
feet deep, through which the miners descend into the mine, and up 
which the coal is brought to the surface in small cars hoisted by a 
powerful steam engine. Turning to the left at the "Shaft," we im- 
mediately began the ascent of Dan's Mountain. From the tortuosity 
and roughness of the mountain road, it being obstructed the greater 
portion of the distance by boulders, rocky fragments, and general 
debris, we made slow progress, as it was physically tiresome to the 
horses. Apart, in common with ourselves, they felt the effect of 
atmospheric attenuation, which is peculiarly exhausting. Sitting 
in our saddles, we were panting and gasping, and had to breathe 
about forty times per minute, instead of the normal amount of re- 
spiratory effort, or twenty per minute, so as to get the necessary 
amount of oxygen in our blood. 

In our ascent, the first noteworthy locality we came to was the 
Tillage of "Pompey Smash," the home of several hundred mineri 
3 



50 

and their families, Welsh, Irish and Scotch. The Porapey Smashers 
are a gay and festive population, devoted to " red eye," " mountain 
due" and "morning star," and to form a just estimate of Pompey 
Smash character and society, one must see them at either a wedding 
or a wake, or their monthly free fight. On either of these occasions 
they may be seen in all their glory. Apart from their hilariousness, 
they are an honest, hard-working village of miners, and each pater- 
familias possesses a wife, a three hundred pound porker, a game 
rooster, and from nine to fourteen children. Pay-day, the fifteenth 
of each month, is the day that dawns brightest upon them, and on 
that morning the festivities of Pompey Smash begin, and if a Sun- 
day should succeed within a day or two of the fifteenth, they are 
ecstatic. The corn juice, Scotch reel and Irish jig absorb every 
Pompey Smasher, old and young, and the grand climax and finale 
of the festivities is the ecstatic "free fight," which causes Dan's 
Mountain to leap for joy. These monthly jubilees result in a trans- 
mogrification physiognomically ; the Scotch visage and accent are 
.made broader, the Irish features are flattened, and the Welsh nasal 
appendage is softened down several degrees, and his voice I — every- 
body knows what the pronunciation and accent of Welsh is like — 
you^would be sore in body and brain for a month to hear a Welsh- 
man talk five minutes. In these social "Germans," the ladies of 
Pompey Smash are not neglected. They participate in the flowing 
bowl and terpsichorean evolutions sans clogs or stockings, and en- 
liven the occasion with the loud, mirthful blending of Welsh, Celtic 
and Scandinavian vociferations, with bare arms and shillelah accom- 
paniment. 

After leaving Pompey Smash, we climbed along a road wooded 
on both sides with chestnut timber and oak, and after a three hours 
ride, came in sight of the lonely, gray, jagged and towering rock. 
We tethered our horses at its base, climbed from ledge to ledge up 
its rugged side some fifty or sixty feet, and reached the level summit. 
What description can convey the slightest idea of the illimitable ex- 
panse and sublimity all around ? I was overwhelmed with emotion 
and sank down upon the rock in silence and awe, perched amid the 
clouds, whose gauze-like texture floated about my head in a bound- 
less sea of mountains, the beautiful Piedmont valley four thousand 
feet below, and the Potomac like a silvery ribbon winding through 
it, and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and trains, the cars of 
which did not look larger than a train of black ants. We drank in 
the cool, pure air of the heavens, and gazed on the river-like appear- 
ance of the moving mist, as it stretched away and curved and rolled 
around the mountains, and settled like a fleecy, wide-spread table- 
cloth on the surface of the deep down valley. We sat in silence and 
contemplated the scene, filled with the blended impression of pleas- 
ure, solemnity and awe. On this "Rock," "which like a giant 
stands to sentinel enchanted land," should arise a fane whose spires 
and domes should be cnwreathed by and pierce the fleece-like clouds. 
It is a site fit for the throne of a monarch whose sceptre should sway 



51 ' 

from the frozen regions of the north to the Patagonian shores, and 
from the waters of the Pacific to the Atlantic's western confines. 

In Garrett county, the extreme western county of Maryland, called 
so in honor of John W. Garrett, Esq., President of the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railroad, and also in commemoration of a deceased 
brother, Henry W. Garrett, whose beneficence erected a substantial 
and ornately constructed Gothic church in the village of Oakland, 
the same geological series are present, and impressively noticeable 
are the perfectly cubic-shaped and immense blocks of limestone, 
scattered over that region. They are in the valleys and on the 
loftiest mountain peaks. The regularity of their figure and angles 
are remarkable ; a stone-mason could not have chiseled them more 
geometrically regular. Some of them, thousands of tons of weight, 
are poised on the very top of the mountain, and look as if they could 
be tilted off and sent crashing down the mountain side by the power 
of a child's finger. 

Twenty-two miles west of Oakland, the mountain rover or the 
tourist in Pullman Palace car, whistling through the tunnels and 
mountain gorges, halts at Rowlesburg, the eastern introduction or 
environs of the unequalled " Cheat River" scenery and region, that 
will alternately fascinate, awe and affright, for here Nature simul- 
taneously writhed in agony and split her sides with laughter, and 
touched with her finest pencil the gorgeous scene. 



CHAPTER TV. 

There is not in this wide world a ralley so sweet 

As that vale in whose bosom the Cheat and Tray meet. 

At Rowlesburg, on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, 253 miles 
from Baltimore city, the tourist in the elegant coaches of that 
greatest of railroads on this round world, or the foot-sore and sun- 
bronzed geological wanderer and searcher, laden with rocky frag- 
ments in pockets and hat crown, enters the portal of the sublime 
and ravishingly sweet valley where the Cheat River and Tray Run 
effect their confluence. The topography east of Rowlesburg and 
immediately around the village, although mountainous, foreshadows 
nothing of the grandeur and sublimity that suddenly unfold to view 
a few hundred yards west of the village ; this grandeur and sublimity 
are compressed and crowded into the space of seven and one 
quarter miles, from Rowlesburg to Tunnelton, and for that distance 
there is not, cannot be found in the wide world, the sublimity, 
grandeur, and beauty, so impressively and harmoniously blended. 
The dark, steel-colored "Cheat" gently flowing through the 
narrow valley hardly one hundred yards wide, and the silvery Tray 
rippling through the mountain gorge to mingle with the Cheat; the 
sublime mountains, swelling perpendicularly from the side of the 
Cheat, and lifting their domes and spires three thousand feet am d 
the clouds, the ever varying scene, at morning, noon, and evening. 



62 

by sunlight or moonlight, and the flitting cloud, will instantly 
cause a totally different aspect and effect on river, mountain, and 
valley. I have witnessed the mellow, soft, deep twilight, almost 
amounting to darkness, instantly settle over this little valley and 
stream and the vast mountain, caused by the flitting, interposed 
cloud, and there is not the same aspect and effect maintained for 
five minutes at a time in this treasure of the AUeghanies, and gem 
of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. In viewing the Cheat River 
from the tresseling of those two bridges over the Cheat and Tray, 
the mind is rapidly and alternately oscillating between awe, 
sublimity and the impression of ravishing loveliness, and one is 
fascinated and charmed, and the senses are intoxicated amid this 
profusion and feast of nature ; and one wishes to linger yet awhile, 
another day, to stay there, to die there, in this deep mountain 
gorge, by the side of the murmuring Tray. But it is at night, 
when no sound is heard in this deep, lone valley, save the 
ripple of the cool, silvery Tray, when the round, full* moon peeps 
over the high wall of yonder big mountain, and her rays fall aslant 
up the little valley that the fairy-like scene becomes ecstatically 
lovely. It is at this period that the pencil or pen is utterly im- 
potent, and the mind is lost, intoxicated, abandoned, and drinks in 
the scenic draft to delicious unconsciousness, and is only aroused 
by the shrill scream of the "fast line," climbing up the mountain 
side, hanging half way up the mountain on a ledge five and a ha/ 
feet wide. What ! a train of passenger coaches and Pullman cars 
and a magnificent locomotive climbing a mountain side on a road 
bed five and a half feet wide and seven hundred feet above a yawn- 
ing chasm 1 Travel yourself over this road that has not its equal 
on earth, in equipment, management, and scenery, and I will 
venture to predict that no investment of the same amount of $22.00 
can be made, that will yield an interest so substantial, instructive 
and enjoyable. Its beneficial and pleasurable effect will abide with 
you to life's close. At this time, the truly humane, benevolent and 
beneficent of our city are carrying out the noble and praiseworthy 
undertaking of "free, indigent children and mothers' excursions," 
whereby they can be enlivened and revivified by the pure air of 
God and delighted and cheered by the sun's rays and the beautiful 
blue heavens, that they never saw or heard of before, in the narrow, 
noisome, pestilential alleys in which they werelborn and live, amid 
squalor, crime and woe. This act upon the part of these noble 
women and men of our city, I verily believe, will endear them to 
God infinitely more, and cause' His heart to expand with 
mercy toward them, and His countenance to shine with more 
benignancy than all the college and hospital buildings that could 
be constructed over a space ten miles square. Next to this let a 
grand excursion be inaugurated to extend from Baltimore to the 
Ohio River, on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and let the in- 
vitations include every poor person who has never been over the 
road, men and women, and children over ten years, those that can 



53 

appreciate, and give such persons an opportunity to get a whiff of 
pure mountain air, view the sublime mountain scenery of the 
Alleghanies and have an idea what the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
road is. I believe it would be incalculably beneficial, physically 
and instructively to the children of our Public Schools to travel 
over this road. Let each class, annually, go over and return. It 
would be refreshing and exhilarating, they would enjoy the ride 
in the easy, fine coaches of the company, and be charmed and ex- 
cited by the ever varying niagnificent mountain and valley scenery 
of the route. 

It has been a matter of astonishment to me that the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railroad Company, among other sites for their unequaled 
railroad hotel palaces, as one will find at Cumberland — " The 
Queen City," and the elegant "Deer Park," and "Grafton Hotel," 
have not fixed upon one amid the Cheat River scenery, as a location 
for one of thtir great railroad hotels. There is the wildest, sublimest 
scenery on the road ; game abounds all the year round, deer and 
pheasant hunting; fishing all the summer; and a point nearly 
equidistant between Baltimore and Cincinnati, here, would certainly 
meet the eastern and western bound tourist, and they would sojourn 
in scenery sublime and enchanting, in deep solitude and shade, 
and pure, -cool mountain air, that causes one, almost without ex- 
ception, any night, to sit by a blaze of faggots on the hearthstone, 
and to sleep with blanket and coverlid. It is here in this valley of 
the Cheat, the toil-worn and care-worn could have a respite, the 
drooping be revived, and the contemplative and thoughtful have 
surroundings of beauty and grandeur upon which their minds 
would dwell and feast, and be attuned to adoring mood, and directed 
and uplifted to God by His awe-inspiring works. At present there 
are no accommodations for the traveler to the valley of the Cheat, 
except at one or two inferior hotels or boarding houses at Rowles- 
burg and Tunuelton. The location for h hotel would properly be 
about midway the valley, or near where the Cheat and Tray meet; 
there the mountains swell up almost perpendicularly from the 
water, the whole length of the valley, and in the centre of the 
valley one is completely circumvented by grand and lofty mountains, 
so close together and precipitous as to almost exclude the sun, 
save at noonday. At Tunnelton begins that sublime piece of 
masonry that is truly awe-inspiring in its length, construction and 
the human engineering skill, jperseverance and labor requisite to 
overcome nature. Here nature seemed determined to arrest the 
further progress of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad ; she, directly 
in the teeth of the great road, hilled up or rolled a vast mountain, 
ap{)arently in desperation, determined that the great work should 
there stop, and man should succumb to her obstacles and insuper- 
able barrier. She yielded to the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad for 
over one hundred and fifty miles; her rivers had been spanned by 
magnificent iron bridges, some of them swinging at dizzy heights 
from mountain side to opposite mountain side, across deep chasms 



54 

and turbulent torrents. "Hie railroad had been built around her 
mountains in a spiral route; her mountains were pierced, bored and 
tunnelled; she had yielded to the invincible engineer; had been 
tortured, pushed aside, ignored and laughed at in every conceivable 
way; but here at Cheat River, the engineer and his army of 3,000 
men, with their crow-bars, picks, shovels, and engines, halted, dis- 
mayed, disconcerted, and apparently overcome at last. They looked 
wistfully, silently and inquisitively in each other's faces ; a council 
of war was held; in that council it was determined to "take that 
mountain." A charge was ordered, and with uplifted ax, shovel, 
pick and spade, on that army rushed, and the bowels of that 
mountain were laid open, and the work of evisceration did not 
cease until the rays of light from the east and west met in the 
narrow, one mile in length, " Kingwood Tunnel." Here nature 
gave up the ghost, dismayed, discomfited, and overwhelmed ; 
from there to the Ohio River she ceased to annoy or place obstacles 
of any extent in the path of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. 

The " Kingwood Tunnel" required 3,000 laborers constantly 
employed for the space of three years. Its length under the moun- 
tain, from the eastern to the western orifice, is one mile, and its 
masonry can not be surpassed for safety and durability. Surpass- 
ing the Kingwood Tunnel in engineering skill and human per- 
severance and conquest over almost insuperable obstacles, are the 
tresseling and bridges over the Cheat River and Tray Run. De- 
scription fails to convey an appreciable and acceptable picture of 
these dizzy and sublime pieces of masonry, and those iron struc- 
tures ; one must be suspended almost in the clouds in a railroad car, 
to appreciate the great work. You can not see the track upon 
which the train glides; you look up and see the sky and the dark 
mountain side across the Cheat; you look down from the car window 
and you become giddy ; the Cheat and Tray are away down below 
you, immediately under the track, and the tops of the loftiest trees, 
away down underneath in the valley, look like the surface of cut 
velvet, and as evenly clipped. The Cheat and Tray have a steel- 
like lustre, and look like coronal metallic bands encircling the 
base of the dark green mountain. There is not such a grouping 
of nature's sublimity and wildness, and man's genius, skill and 
engineering power, over apparently insuperable obstacles and 
barriers, to be found on the whole earth, within the space of seven 
and a quarter miles, as is here presented in this Cheat River valley 
and Kingwood Tunnel. Spanning these rivers with bridges 
resting upon tresseling one hundred and seventy feet high, looking 
like wire gauze when viewed a short distance off, blasting a road- 
bed in the solid rock half way up the mountain side, the outer ends 
of the railroad ties overhanging an abyss seven hundred feet deep, 
was victory over nature overwhelmingly sublime. It was a gigantic 
contest for the right of way, but the engineer came off victorious, 
and the mighty engine, with its long train, darts up that mountain's 
side, regardless of the yawning chasm beneath, and spurns the moun- 



55 

tain in its pathway. God-like, truly, was the mind and omnipotent 
the power that overcame the obstacles in that Cheat River valley. 
The tresseling and tunneling in that locality will be a monument 
through all time to the genius and skill of those civil engineers 
who accomplished the work, 

I have been whirled around that mountain, seven hundred feet 
in the air, and dashed across that tresseling, apparently as fragile 
as a spider's web, and through the labyrinth of mountains, with 
travelers as unimpressionable as a dead negro, seemingly as in- 
sensible to the sublimity that surrounded them, and as unconcerned 
as if passing over the Eastern Shore Railroad from Crisfield to 
Delmar, or through the Pine Barrens along the Weldon Railroad 
in North Carolina. Some people are never excited or aroused to 
an appreciation or comprehension of the beautiful or sublime, or 
calculate and consider the herculean, physical and brain forces 
that were involved and expended in any great work. I have often, 
in surveying a car of passengers, come to the conclusion that the 
material composing their bodies would subserve a more useful 
purpose if it had taken the direction of Cincinnati pork or sauer 
kraut. I can not stomach such compagnons dua;oyage\ it is nause- 
ous and repulsive to be compelled to tolerate the coarse, senseless 
jest and harsh, vacant braying of a swaggering, garrulous crowd. 
It is on this account I detest the village, town, and city, and long 
for the simplicity, quietude and sublimity of nature's greattemple. I 
can only worship in a perfectly adoring mood at the altar of the great 
I AM, and only feel in befitting place when I am curiously wander- 
ing through nature's vast mausoleum, examining the debris and 
ruins of time, deciphering characters impressed and graven in the 
imperishable rock, and translating the earth's cosmology written 
upon the mountain side. It is amid such ruins and records, 
and such scenery as that about Cheat River, so masterly touched 
by the Almighty's hand, here in the gloomy shadows of these vast 
mountains, in that deep gorge by the side of the sparkling Cheat 
or rippling Tray, that I would love to dwell ; here I could un- 
interruptedly commune with nature, translate her great book and 
keep my soul unsullied by non-intercourse with the world. 

Froni the mouth of the Susquehanna river and source of the Ches- 
apeake Bay, projects a long narrow peninsula, two hundred miles in 
extent, by an average breadth of about thirty miles, known as the 
Eastern Shore. The southern extremity of this peninsula forms the 
two Eastern Shore counties of Virginia, Accomac and Northampton, 
the latter terminating in the projection known as Cape Charles. 
This peninsula, apart from the two counties of Virginia, contains 
nine counties of Maryland, and is washed on the eastern side, its 
entire extent, by the Atlantic Ocean. 

Distant from the main land of from five to tweh'e miles, is a chain 
of islands, extending from the Capes of the Delaware to the mouth 
of the Chesapeake ; some large, others of small are.i, and separated 
by inlets. On the western confines of the peninsula is the Chesapeake 



5« 

Bay, averaging in width about twelve miles, and two hundred miles 
long, this Peninsula — the Eastern Shores of Maryland and Virginia 
— is intersected, on an average of ten miles of space, by rivers and 
creeks, flowing into the Chesapeake Bay and transversely crossing 
the peninsula to within a few miles of the Ocean on the east. There 
is no area of the same extent probably upon the globe that is pos- 
sessed of such maritime and fluviatile advantages and can present ia 
its continued length the same littoral line or surface. From the 
mouth of the Chesapeake Bay to the mouth of the Susquehanna, the 
rivers and creeks abound in the finest species of wild fowl, "their 
sub-undine surfaces are paved with the most highly flavored and 
delicious bivalves, and their waters teem with many species of deli- 
cious fish. 

This "Eastern Shore," from being interposed between the Chesa- 
peake Bay on the one hand and the Atlantic Ocean on the other, it 
can be readily perceived that its climate must be mild and apprecia- 
bly temperate. Lying not more than two hundred miles distant 
from the Gulf Stream, that courses parallel with its entire extent, it 
perceptibly feels the thermal influence of that warm oceanic artery. 
Owing to this inter-oceanic position and consequent mollification of 
its climate, it is readily acknowledged to be a most favorable local- 
it}'^ for the growth of all grains, fruits, and crops. Especially is its 
benignaucy manifested in the early and rapid (compared with other 
regions) germination, fructification, and maturation of fruits and 
berries of every variety and species, and it must, ere long, be a region 
devoted to the table-vegetable productions and become one vast lux- 
uriant market-garden. 

Geologically considered, the Eastern Shore of Maryland and Vir- 
ginia is of very recent formation, and is undoubtedly formed by the 
silt and detritus swept down by the floods of the Susquehanna and 
Strewn along for two hundred miles, gradually accumulating in 
depth and breadth, until it finally appeared above the level of the 
sea. The soil is exclusively alluvial, formed entirely of sand, clay, 
and humus, and the only organic remains ever found embedded, are 
the exuviae of present existing species and varieties of shell-fish and 
marine and fluviatile vertebrata. Its era is confined to the pos- 
teriary period or formations, almost recent enough to be within the 
memory of a few generations past. Superficially it is level ; slight 
undulations are met with, but no elevations pertaining to hills or 
mountains. The oceanic littoral line is beveled gradually, and the 
mariner will find soundings of from five to ten fathoms twenty miles 
distant from the land. No remains of inorganic substances of either 
granitic, carboniTerous or any paleozoic specimen has ever been 
found, nor is there any indication of its existence at the time of the 
earliest flora and fauna. 

The earliest possessors and inhabitants of the peninsula were 
various tribes of Indians, a few of them powerful and numerous. 
The most powerful tribe occupying the southern portion of the pen- 
insula, was the Nanticokes, and evidences of their occupation are 



57 

still extant in the oyster-shell mounds and embankments which they 
left behind, and frequently contain specimens of their trinkets, pipes, 
and arrow-heads. They must have been almost exclusively pisciv- 
orous, as fish were the only article of food bountifully supplied and 
easily obtained. Up the peninsula other large tribes dwelt, and 
chief among them were the Delawares, who left not long ago and 
emigrated to the northwest. These Indians of the Eastern Shore 
gave names to the various localities in which they lived or frequented, 
and the Anglo-Saxon owner of the soil to-day, calls and knows them 
by their aboriginal nomenclature. To the majestic bay that bounds 
it on the west they gave the name of Chesapeake — the great salt 
bay ; Chingoteague indicates where pike fish are plentiful and are 
caught; Annemessex, the creek where logs are obtained for build- 
ing ; Choptank, the river with the big bend, and every one who has 
ever been up that river will recognize the applicability of the name, 
this big sweeping bend occurring about tv?o miles above the town 
of Cambridge ; Monie, the place of assembling for their big talk on 
important and state occasions; Nanticoke, the first or big tribe; 
Pocomoke, the river abounding in shell-fish: Quantico, the big 
dancing place, where they assembled for the great annual dance; 
Sinepuxent, filled with oyster beds ; Susquehanna, the river with 
rapids; Tuckaho, where deer are scarce or difficult to obtain; 
Wicomico, where wigwams or Indian houses were built, an Indian 
city; Manokin, the place for scalping and where also they had a fort 
or place for defence; Mytipquin, the great burying-ground where all 
the dead were buried, the great Indian cemetery. In confirmation 
of this fact, the author of this article, in visiting the locality, which 
is a narrow isthmus between the Nanticoke and Wicomico rivers in 
Somerset county, saw exhumed bones and fragments of human 
crania, undoubtedly of Indian type. No more convincing, conclu- 
sive proof of the existence of an extinct race exists than the osteolog- 
ical remains embedded in the earth. This locality, apart from being 
their big or great burial-ground, must also have been thickly popu- 
lated or frequented by the Nanticokes and perhaps visiting tribes; 
for nowhere on the peninsula, that I have visited, are found more 
oyster shells embedded in the earth, both in riparian situations and 
also remote from the water. These Eastern Shore tribes were locally- 
nomadic ; they roved up and down the peninsula and from their 
fierce and warlike propensities frequently came in deadly collision. 
It sometimes occurred that tribes crossed the Chesapeake Bay, from 
the Western Shore of Maryland and Virginia, and made incursions 
into the country of the Accomacs and Nanticokes, either from war- 
loving or predatory propensities. 

Upon one of a chain of small islands situated in the Chesapeake 
Bay, about midway between the mouth of the Pocomoke and Poto- 
mac rivers, are evidences of Indian occupation, either for resident or 
warlike purposes. There is a tradition entertained at this day among 
the inhabitants of this island, that the two powerful tribes, the Pow- 
hattans of the Western Shore, and the Nanticokes of the Eastern 



58 

Shore, met here in deadly conflict, which battle forever cooled the 
warlike ardor and humbled the prowess of the Powhattans, and left 
the Nanlicokes master of the field and their domains secure from 
vexatious incursions and ruinous spoliations. These various tribes 
in the course of time were mingled into or joined the warlike and 
powerful Delawares, and after this consolidation the Susquehannas 
joined their forces with them, an'd being encroached upon and an- 
noyed by the presence of the white race, they simultaneously struck 
their wigwams and started for new and far distant hunting-grounds, 
towards the setting sun. And their race is almost run ; a few more 
full moons will come and go and the descendants of the Nanticokes, 
the Delawares and Susquehannas will be no more. They will only 
be remembered as the hideous Indian with his dress of skins, his 
painted visage, his bow and arrow, his revengeful and bloodthirsty 
nature; his wrongs and theChristian white man's deception, treach- 
ery and cruelty, will not be remembered nor mentioned. 

It is on the* northern shore of the Sassafras river, which river 
divides the counties of Kent and Cecil lying on the north, that we 
are brought in contact with ancient formations, formations dating 
back to the metamorphic and Jurassic periods in the earth's cosmog- 
ony ; and one will only have to ascend the Susquehanna a few miles, 
as far up as Havre-de-Grace and Port Deposit, when he will be con- 
fronted with the most ancient works and objects in existence. _ Here 
one will see the granitic formations, and be carried back in his con- 
templations to the earliest period of time. Here is the dividing line 
between the ancient formations and the new, recent, or alluvial de- 
posits. This line of geological demarkation runs nearly due east 
and west from the neighborhood of Philadelphia to the city of Balti- 
more, all north of it being ancient, that south of it being recent or 
newly formed. On the Western Shore of Maryland this line of sep- 
aration deflects southerly, and this deflection is maintained entirely 
across Maryland and Virginia. Calvert county and the counties 
south of it along the shores of the Chesapeake are recent, or tertiary, 
and nearly geologically of the same constituents as those on the oppo- 
site side of the Chesapeake Bay. Physically the land on the Western 
Shore is more elevated and undulating, and can be accounted for 
easily, as being the foot-hills of the Blue Ridge or Appalachian range, 
from forty to filty miles distant. 

In Baltimore (^unty the formations are of the most ancient type, 
and along the breams flowing in that and the adjacent counties, 
westwardly, evidences of the fact present themselves in the exposed 
strata, granitic outcroppings and boulders that one meets with in 
every direction. As on the Eastern Sliore, large and powerful In- 
dian tribes dwelt upon and roamed over these grounds: so also on 
the Western Shore there is not a creek, river, or bay, that does not 
furnish evidence of their possession or occupation. Upon the shores 
of the St. Mary's river, in thecounty of St. Mary's, was first unfurled 
the banner of religious liberty, and where the first English Catholic 
pilgrims made their humble genuflections at the foot of the cross. At 



59 

this spot are visible the mural vestiges of the first governor's house of 
the Lords Proprietary, Leonard and Cecilius Calvert, the Lords Bal- 
timore. Fortuitous circumstances caused it to be abandoned, and 
the present site of Leonardtown chosen instead. 

West of the bay side range of counties, one leaves the recent or 
tertiary formations and enters upon a broad expanse of ancient 
structure, and the realms of the earliest types of animal and vegeta- 
ble organizations, substances, forms and structures, that date their 
origin and bear testimony to their existence at a period briefly sub- 
sequent, when the earth was without form and void, and darkness 
spread over the face of the deep. They point to a period long away, 
when no man existed, or any animal or plant; they gloomily, 
silently and sadly bear record that ages long and countless have 
elapsed, an ocean of time has intervened that science and the mind 
of man cannot encompass. 



HISTORIC HOMES IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHENANDOAH. 



The tourist upon the valley branch of the Baltimore and Ohio 
Railroad, leaving Harper's Ferry can alight at Winchester or Sum- 
mit Point and there get conveyance, and a ride of twelve miles in 
view of the magnificent ranges of mountains will bring him to the 
most interesting historic locality in the valley of Virginia. The 
first house he will probably reach js " Greenway Court," the resi- 
dence, in the eighteenth century, of Lord Fairfax, who owned quite 
a third of the old State of Virginia, and at that day " Greenway 
Court" was habitually frequented by Washington, a mere youth, 
and surveyor of Lord Fairfax's countless acres. 

The character of this old noble man was eccentric, and his life 
had been filled with romantic incidents. He was descended from 
an old Scotch-English Knight, Sir Thomas Fairfax, who lived at 
his estate called Denton, in Yorkshire. Failure of fortune, and 
bitter disappointment in a love afiair, drove young Lord Fairfax into 
exile across the ocean. His early manhood had been brilliant; he 
had been educated at Oxford, was a member of the "Blues," and 
led the life of a fine Loudon gentleman of the first water, in the 
midst of nobles, countesses and authors. The moment came when 
young Fairfax found himself entangled in one of those affairs which 
shape the destinies of men. He fell in love with a beauty of the 
court, paid his addresses to her. and was engaged to be married; 
every preparation was made, coaches, horses, jewels, costly presents 
of every description were ordered, and the blissful moment was near 
at hand — it was not fated to arrive. The young lady suddenly 
changed her mind, a ducal coronet was held up before her, by a 



60 

rirftl, and she jilted young Fairfax. He became a bitter cynic and 
■woman-hater thenceforth to the day of bis death. His taste for cul- 
tivated and refined society forsook him, and bade adieu to England* 
and crossed the ocean to his possessions in America, to the valley of 
the Shenandoah, then filled with deer and wolves, and buried him- 
self in the vast wilderness where •' Fans never flirted, nor Ribbons 
fluttered." 

The lands mentioned were of princely extent and were inherited 
by him from his mother, a daughter of Lord Culpepper. They em- 
braced the whole area lying between the Rappahannock and Poto- 
mac rivers in the colony of Virginia, from the shores of a certain 
Chesapeake Bay to the head-waters of the said rivers. Here was a 
new world of good fortune opened. Denton, Nun-Appleton, and 
all the English estates of the Fairfaxes, might have been hidden 
away in one corner of the Virginia principality, and lost from view. 
Rivers, bays, mountains, rich lowlands, breezy uplands, forests, 
mines, towns, and wild beasts in myriads to hunt, were the young 
lord's; and he was duke, prince, king almost, in the extent of his 
possessions. It is true that the country was comparatively unex- 
plored ; but settlers were thronging in ; the ax of the pioneer was 
ringing in the great forests ; fertile fields were coming steadily under 
cultivation ; Fredericksburg, Winchester, Warrenton, and numerous 
other towns were springing up — of all which the bankrupt young 
earl found himself suzerain by letters patent from our lord the 
king, with rental of a shilling only, for each thousand or hundred 
thousand acres, payable each year at the " Feast of St. Michael the 
Archangel." 

It was this handsome little property that young Thomas Lord 
Fairfax, Baron of Cameron, now came to visit. William Fairfax, a 
kinsman, had preceded him, and built a commodious residence for 
himself and family, called Belvoir, which was situated on the Poto- 
mac, below the present city of Washington. The family at Belvoir 
had many agreeable neighbors, among them the Washington family, 
living at Mount Vernon, near by. With the Washingtons, indeed, 
William Fairfax was connected by marriage; and, when Lord 
Fairfax came, he made their acquaintance, from which sprung his 
connection with young George Washington, then an unknown 
youth of fourteen or fifteen. It may be fairly said that the influ- 
ence thus brought to bear upon the life of the boy had a paramount 
part in shaping his subsequent career. The youth was of an ardent 
and energetic temperament, and had longed to enter therojal navy, 
in which he had secured a midshipman's warrent — only to desist, 
however, from his intention in consequence of the tears and entrea- 
ties of his .mother. He was now without occupation, and was idly 
•pending his time in social visiting and in hunting. At this crisis 
Lord Fairfax appeared, made a favorite of the youth, conversed with 
him of England and the great world, and ended by engaging him to 
proceed across the Blue Ridge and survey the Fairfax lands toward 
the upper waters of the Potomac. 



61 

Young George Washington, then sixteen, ardently accepted this 
offer of the old nobleman, and in March, 1748, set out on horse- 
back for the Blue Ridge, crossed at Ashby's Gap, and entered the 
valley — a stalwart, ruddy, manly young fellow, keen in quest of 
incident and adventure, and highly pleased, as he intimates, at the 
prospect of earning a "doubloon a day " as surveyor. The figure 
of the youth on his spirited horse, with chain and compasses and 
other instruments, rifle in hand, and a smile upon his lips, crossing 
the mountain, fording the Shenandoah, and riding on beneath the 
great sycamores into the far-reaching prairies — this figure will 
forcibly arrest the attention of every student of the life of Washing- 
ton. On the night of the day when he passed the Blue Ridge, he 
slept, lie says in his journal, at " Lord Fairfax's ;" and the spot 
thus designated was Greenway Court, to which Lord Fairfax soon 
afterward removed, making it thenceforward his chief place of 
residence. 

The house of Greenway Court was situated near the present 
village of White Post, so called from a white post erected at the 
spot by Lord Fairfax, to point out the way to his dwelling.* It 
stood some miles from the Shenandoah, in the midst of a lovely 
country, which — beautiful to-day — is said to have been far more so 
in the last century. The English traveler Burnaby, journeying at 
that time from the east to the Blue Ridge, declares that, from the 
summit of the mountain, the exquisite landscape, brilliant with 
" camoe-daphnes in full bloom," burst on him like a fairy spectacle; 
and he exclaims that only to live here, poor and humble, were better 
than to be prince or king elsewhere 1 The valley of the Shenandoah 
is, indeed, a region of the rarest attractions. The beauties of the 
lowland and the mountains are blended in the landscape; on the 
left the Blue Ridge rolls away in azure billows ; southward, the 
" Three Sisters " and the Massinutton rise like a battlemented wall, 
deep blue against the orange flush of sunset; to the west the great 
North Mountain stretches like a cloud along the horizon ; and 
through fertile fields, or tall forests, the Shenandoah, limpid as 
crystal, steals, with a low murmur, by the base of the Ridge 
toward the Potomac. This country is noted now for its rich crops 
of cereals ; in the last century it was equally famous for its luxuri- 
ant grass. Tradition declares that the valley at that time was one 
vast prairie, alternating with forest ; that in summer the grass was 
so tall as to be tied together in front of a man on horseback ; and 
that the prairie, extending as far as the eye could see, was dazzling, 
with its myriads of flowers in full bloom — an ocean of the richest 
colors, which every breeze broke into billows. 

A more appropriate place of residence could not be imagined for 
the exiled nobleman and disappointed lover, whom "mark delighted 
not, nor woman either !" 

♦This post still stands, or rather a similar one, the authorities of the village 
carefully replacing it when it decays or is injured. 



62 

The old house of Greenway Court was torn down by the owner of 
the property many years since, but the writer saw it standing, and 
well remembers it. It was a long, low mansion, built of stone, with 
a veranda in front, overshadowed by ancient locust-trees, old 
dormer-windows lighting the attic, and two belfries on the roof, in- 
tended, it has been supposed, to contain bells for the purpose of 
calling together the settlers in case of an Indian attack. At the dis- 
tance of fifty or a hundred yards, was a low stone-cabin, originally 
occupied by Lord Fairfax as an "office" for the issue of deeds to 
settlers, one of which, on yellow parchment, with the brief signature 
" Fairfax," is now before the writer. The larger "court " is said to 
have been designed by Lord Fairfax for his steward, which would 
seem to indicate an intention of erecting a more suitable mansion for 
himself. But he was an eccentric personage; seems to have pre- 
ferred a small, wooden cabin near ; and here, surrounded by hia 
deer, hounds, English servants, rude retainers, and a few books, of 
which a list remains, he passed a number of the latter years of his 
life, a Virginia Nimrod, and king of the wilds. 

Of the place and its figures, at that epoch, an idle fancy might 
draw an animated picture — a great fire blazing on the hearth of the 
small house, the autumn foliage brushing the roof, hounds sleeping 
on the floor or gamboling in the sunshine, and his lordship, the 
Earl of Fairfax, and Baron of Cameron, enthroned in hunting-garb 
in his great chair, surrounded by huntsmen, trappers, Indians — all 
the rude society, in a word, of the frontier. His passion was hunt- 
ing, and it is said that he had also an eccentric fancy for hoarding 
English gold-coin — a considerable quantity was unearthed at the 
spot some years ago. 

Tall, swarthy, reserved, and with no adjuncts of place or power, 
his lordship, nevertheless, preserved considerable state and dignity, 
it is said, as lieutenant of the county and chief magistrate, riding to 
court in his chariot drawn by four horses, and grandly presiding^ 
wrapped in a rich red velvet cloak. Thus, in reading, hunting, 
dreaming, passed the long years of Fairfax's exile at Greenway 
Court ; and the boy George Washington came and went, growing to 
manhood. At last the Revolution came, and the 43oy surveyor was 
appointed commander-in-chief of the American armies. What Lord 
Fairfax thought thereof is not known; but one last incident con- 
nects him with the ruddy boy. In 1T81 the Earl was at Winchester, 
when a sudden commotion seized upon the people, and when he in- 
quired its meaning, he was informed that Lord Cornwall is had 
surrendered his army at Yorktown to General George Washington. 
At this intelligence the aged Earl stood aghast. The boy to whom 
he had paid a doubloon a day for surveying, had annihilated the 
British dominion on the western continent. The old Earl uttered a 
a groan and exclaimed to his old body servant, "Take me to bed, 
Joe J it is time for i»e to die," and in a few months he did die. 



Saratoga. 

A short distance from Greenway Court, and about two miles from 
the Utile villages of Millwood and White Post, each, is Saratoga, the 
ancient residence of the renowned victor of Tarleton, General Daniel 
Morgan. Saratoga is plain, massive, unpretending, embodying the 
character of its owner. Morgan, in his youth, fought the Indians 
about Winchester, defended Edward's Fort on Lost River against 
them, and in 1756 took part in Braddock'S fatal expedition as a 
common soldier. In this campaign he received a bullet through the 
neck, and four hundred and ninety-nine lashes. Soon the Revolu- 
tion came. He raised a company of the finest youths in Frederick, 
and a battalion in the Valley, and marched to join Washington at 
Boston. These were the first troops that marched from the South 
to the defense of the North. Morgan, on reaching Boston, drew up 
his Virginians, and at Washington's appearance, made the military 
salute and reported " from the right bank of the Potomac, General." 
The face of Washington flushed, his eyes filled, and dismounting, 
passed along the entire line, grasping every hand in turn. 

Of Morgan's ability as a soldier there can be no doubt, and his 
merit in the campaigns of the Carolinas is fully recognized by Gen- 
eral Greene and Colonel "Light-Horse Harry" Lee. At the Cow- 
pens, the backwoodsman overthrew the brilliant Colonel Tarleton, 
trained in all the military science of the European school, and the 
result at the battle of Saratoga was claimed by his friends to have 
been largely due to his nerve and soldiership. He is said to have 
named his house ''Saratoga," in grim, historic protest against the 
injustice of General Gates, who scarcely mentioned him in his bul- 
letin of the battle. After the war, Morgan retired to the Valley, 
and erected this mansion — taking no part in public affairs thereafter, 
save once, as member of Congress from Frederick county. 

Of this stalwart soldier — a tall, powerful, bony, and plain-spoken 
man — as of the building of his house, many traditions remain in the 
neighborhood. At Winchester, some miles distant, were stationed 
a large number of Hessians, taken prisoners at Saratoga, and as 
these men were, many of them, stone-masons by trade, Morgan em- 
ployed them to build his house. The stone for the purpose, which 
is in large blocks, was quarried on the Opequon, and the Hessians 
are said to have borne it for miles on their shoulders, the General 
riding beside them, and spurring them on with the statement that, 
" If they did not work, the country could not afford to feed them !" 
Whether this be true or not, the General "Succeeded in constructing 
an excellent dwelling-house, and here were spent his calm, latter 
years. It is said that in process of time he became deeply pious, 
uniting himself to the Presbyterian Church ; but, according to his 
own statement in his last days, he had always experienced strong 
religious impressions. 

"People thought," he said on his death-bed, "that Daniel Mor- 
gan never prayed— they said that old Morgan never was afraid — 
they did not know.- Old Morgan was often miserably afraid 1" 



64 

"On the night," he declared, "of the storming of Quebec, in the 
deep darkness, he felt his heart sink, and, going aside, knelt down 
by one of the cannon, and prayed that the Lord God Almighty 
would be his shield and defence." In like manner, at the Cow- 
pens, the sight of Tarleton's imposing forces in his front had filled 
him with dismay ; whereupon he retired to the woods near at hand, 
and, kneeling in an old tree-top, prayed earnestly for himself, his 
men, and his country. This is assuredly the true spirit of the Chris- 
tian warrior, shrinking, it may be, from death and judgment, but 
bravely doing his duty after prayer to God; and "Old Morgan" 
here presents a'nobler spectacle than any whiskered "army-man" 
that ever swore to hide his trepidation. 

That the zest of life, however, was powerful in this strong organ- 
ization, there is every reason to believe. Physical health and 
strength made him enjoy life keenly, and relax his hold upon it with 
regret. A tradition remains, that on his death-bed, or in his latter 
days, he said to one of his friends : 

"To be only twenty again, I would be willing to be stripped 
naked, and hunted through the Blue Ridge with wild dogs I" 

Morgan died in Winchester in 1802, at the age of sixty-seven, but 
he lived until 1800 at the house of Saratoga. A visit to the place 
will repay the lover of historic localities. With its great dining- 
room, lofty mantel-pieces, decorated with bead-work and panneling, 
its elaborate wainscoting and ponderous walls resembling those of 
some feudal castle, the antique building carries you back to a period 
when all things seem to have been more solid, substantial, and en- 
during, than at present. You fancy that the house reflects the 
character of the person who erected it — a plain, unassuming man, 
making no professions, but genuine, strong, and to be relied upon. 
If the traveler who journeys hither be a lover also of the picturesque, 
his taste will not remain ungratified. Saratoga stands on a gentle 
knoll, half surrounded by an amphitheatre of wooded hills. In 
front, across the rolling Valley, rise the blue battlements of the 
Bidge ; a hundred yards away bubble up the bright waters of the 
beautiful fountain ; and the wide-spreading willows, drooping their 
tassels in the stream, sigh dreamily in unison with the reverie in 
which the visitor may indulge. 

The House op General Lee. 

Near the little hamlet of Leetown, and in the angle formed by the 
waters of the Opequon and the Potomac, stand the houses once occu- 
pied by two famous soldiers, exiles both, and embittered by disgrace 
— General Charles Lee and Horatio Gates. 

Truth is stranger than fiction. The adage is trite, but pithy and 
true. It was surely a singular and striking coincidence that these 
two men should have come hither within a few miles of each other, 
to rust out lives once crammed with exciting incident, and crowned 
with honors. Both were Englishmen, and soldiers of fortune. Both 
had been major-generals in the American army. Both had fallen 



65 

into disgrace, and been suspended from their rank. Both were, eren 
during their lives, lost from public memory, and the very resting- 
places of their bodies are now forgotten. The veriter has never passed 
the small house occupied by Lee, during nearly the last quarter of 
the last century, without strongly realizing the great contrast be- 
tween a dwelling so humble, and the career of the human being who 
made this his home — if such a man could possess a home — for so many 
years. Lee's life would furnish material for an exciting romance; 
and the character of the man himself was as singular as any imagined 
by writers of fiction. He was by birth of the English gentry — the 
son of General John Lee, of the British army, who married a daugh- 
ter of Sir Henry Bunbury, Bart. Entering the army a mere boy, he 
took part in the French war in America ; was adopted as a chief by 
the Mohawk Indians, at twenty-four, under the name of "Boiling 
Water," which accurately describes his impetuous character ; was 
shot through the body at the battle of Ticonderoga, while shouting 
"Stand by me, my brave grenadiers 1" nearly lost his life at the 
siege of Fort Niagara; sailed across Lake Erie, and pierced the wil- 
derness to Fort DuQuesn«, going thence a journey of seven hundred 
miles to Crown Point ; descended the St. Lawrence and witnessed 
the surrender of Montreal ; and two years afterward was fording the 
Tagus, in Portugal, and making a night attack at the point of the 
bayonet on the Castle of Villa Velha. The King of Portugal made 
him aid-de-camp and major-general, but the war ended, and Lee 
came back to England. He could not rest. Scarce more than 
thirty, he opened a violent broadside, with his vigorous pen, on the 
party in power, which drove him from the army, and made him a 
wanderer and soldier of fortune. Thenceforth his life became more 
than ever a romance. He repaired to the court of Frederick the 
Great, and had long talks with that famous autocrat. His next step 
was to offer his sword to Stanislaus Augustus, King of Poland, who 
made him his aid-de-camp, and admitted him to his table and his 
intimacy. Eternal movement was, however, a necessity of this 
man's blood. He set off for Constantinople; nearly perished from 
cold and hunger in the mountains of Bulgaria ; and, in Turkey, was 
wellnigh swallowed up by an earthquake. Thence he passed back 
like a meteor to England; solicited employment without success; 
wrote new and more bitter attacks than before upon the ministry ; 
returned to Poland ; was made major-general there, and joined the 
Russian allies, and fought the Turks at Chotzim, retreating with 
the Cossacks, who were terribly cut up by the Turkish cavalry. 
This terminated the military career of Lee in Europe. He left the 
Polish service, traveled restlessly, tormented by gout and rheuma- 
tism, in Italy, Sicily, Malta, and elsewhere — and these years were 
signalized by new assaults upon the English ministers, so bitter and 
brilliant as to have convinced many persons that Lee was the author 
of "Junius." 

In \*llZ the restless and disappointed soldier turned his eyes toward 
America — whose cause he had defended long and ably— and in the 
4 



66 

same year we find him at Mount Vernon, consulting with "Washing- 
ton, who received him with the consideration due to his military 
ability, and his reputation as a soldier. With Mrs. Washington he 
appears to have been less of a favorite. He is said to have tramped, 
followed by his pack of dogs, through the fine drawing-rooms — had 
these canine pets to sit by him at table — and to have conducted 
himself in a manner not calculated to secure the good graces of a 
neat Virginia housewife. Lee's character and manners were proba- 
bly a more serious obstacle to his popularity with ladies. He was 
bitter, cynical, sarcastic, and, it would seem, careless of his person — 
a thin, lanky, angular human being at the best, not such as delights 
the feminine eye. He appears to have indulged throughout life a 
habit of sneering at everything; and, when he left Mount Vernon, 
the lady of the house no doubt rejoiced at his departure. 

The famous soldier was warmly welcomed by Congress, made 
major-general, and seems to have aspired to the chief command. It 
was wisely withheld, and fell to Washington — and the Monmouth 
business followed. " Lee ordered, or was charged with ordering, his 
corps to fall back in the heat of action. Washington rode toward 
him, through the smoke, raging, with flaming eyes, uttering impre- 
cations almost ; and, after the battle, Major-General Lee was court- 
martialed, found guilty, and deprived of his rank in the army. 

So ended, suddenly, all the brilliant dreams of the soldier of for- 
tune, who had, no doubt, looked forward to becoming sooner or 
later, generalissimo of the American armies. The blow seems to 
have well nigh paralyzed him, for he never again made an effort to 
attain military position in^America or elsewhere. His sentiment 
toward Washington became'bitter beyond words; and he retired in 
wrath and disgust to the small stone-house in the Valley, near the 
Opequon, of which I have made mention in the commencement of 
this article. 

Here, General Charles Lee lived the life of a cynic and full-blooded 
Diogenes. The interior of the house had no partitions, being 
divided, by imaginary lines merely, into chamber, sitting-room, 
kitchen, etc.; and in this cabin, surrounded by his dogs, with his 
saddle thrown down in one corner, Lee vegetated year after year. 
His only companion was an Italian body-servant, Minghini, and he 
rarely visited any one save General Gates, who lived some miles 
distant. His bitterness, cynicism, and blasphemous contempt for 
everything sacred, are clearly shown by well-established tradition. 
His hounds were named after the Holy Trinity and the Twelve 
Apostles, and he left directions in his will that his body should not 
be buried "in any church or church-yard, or within a mile of any 
Presbyterian or Anabaptist meeting-house ; for, since he had resided 
in this country, he had kept so much bad company when living, 
that he did not choose to continue it when dead." When on a visit 
once to General Gates, a quarrel is said to have taken place between 
the latter and Mrs. Gates, who passionately demanded of General 
Lee his opinion on the merits of the controversy, and of herself. 



67 

This unlucky question gave Lee an opportunity to display all his 
Junius-like spleen. "Madam," he said, with mock ceremony and 
a bitter sneer, "my opinion of you is, that you are — a tragedy in 
'private life, and a farce to all the world V 

With Washington, his relations remained embittered, and he 
wrote and published "Queries: Political and Military," in which 
he made a fierce attack on the great soldier. In after-years, it is 
said that Washington forgave or forgot these old enmities, and, 
when once in the Valley, sent word to General Lee that he would 
on a certain day come and dine with him. Lee's action was prompt. 
He mounted his horse and rode away. When Washington reached 
the house, he found tacked upon the front door a slip of paper con- 
taining the words, ' ' No meat cooked here to-day ! ' ' 

These incidents are given on the authority of neighborhood 
tradition. The general estimate of Lee is based, however, upon 
an old volume entitled "Memoirs of the Life of the late Charles Lee, 
Esq., Lieutenant-Colonel of the Forty-fourth Regiment, Colonel in 
the Portuguese Service, Major-General and Aid-de-Camp to the 
King of Portugal, and Second in Command in the Service of the 
United States of America, during the Revolution. London, 1792." 
It is possible that the writer was politically hostile to Lee, but 
there seems little reason to question the intense cynicism and 
bitterness of the soldier's character. After all, however, he was 
his own worst enemy. To his savage "Queries," Washington 
made no reply ; and he sank into obscurity and utter neglect, which 
most of all must have galled his 'proud anil arrogant nature. 
Nobody seemed to think him worth the trouble of notice. He 
growled in his solitary den in the wilderness, but his growls were 
unheeded. He would no doubt have died here, but on a visit to 
Philadelphia he was "seized with a shivering," and taking to his 
bed in an obscure inn called "The Conestoga Wagoner," never 
again rose. His last hours were passed in delirious mutterings, 
which indicated that his memory had returned to adventurous 
incidents of his career in Europe and America. The words uttered 
by him to his men at Ticonderoga were the last on his lips. 

" Stand by me, my brave grenadiers !" he exclaimed. Soon after 
this fierce cry, the bitter exile expired. 

He had been aid-de-camp and friend of kings, second in command 
in a republic, a writer so famous as to be thought the real Junius, 
and he died thus in the western wilds, lost from sight and memory. 
The traveler, passing the small, stone-house with its dilapidated 
enclosure, can scarcely realize that here dragged out the last years 
of a soldier and political writer once so famous. 

" Traveler's Rest," the residence of General Gates, comes next 
into view. The singular coincidence in the lives of Lee and Gates 
was remarkable, and being neighbors intensifies one's interest in 
these two remarkable men. Gen. Gates was the son of Capt. Gates 
of the British Army, and Horace Walpold officiated as god-father 
at his christening. Entering the Royal American forces, he served 



68 

in various quarters; gained credit in Martinque, was with Brad- 
dock on his expedition in 1156, to Fort Du Quesne, and returned 
to London. He again repaired to America in ITTS. Went to 
Mount Vernon, where Lee then was, and duly received a high 
commission in the army. At the battle of Camden his ambition 
was overthrown, Congress deprived him of his command, and he 
retired to the Valley of Virginia, purchased a house, and then spent 
his days in retirement and obscurity. The house occupied by him 
bears the name of ''Traveler's Rest." Here General Horatio Gates 
had once glittered in the zenith of fame, here he dragged out his 
latter days in obscurity. 



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ORTOJS'S LIGHTNING CALCULATOR. 



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